3 Ways to Heat a Reptile Vivarium

As reptiles are cold-blooded, they rely on their environment to keep them warm. This means they need an outside heat source to warm themselves, which is why keeping their vivarium heated is vital. The type of heating used will depend largely on the type of reptile as it is important to try and replicate the native environment.

Hot rocks

These rock-shaped heaters are ideal for ground-dwelling lizards in particular, such as bearded dragons, as they allow the reptile to lounge on the rocks and absorb the artificial heat. Just as they would in their natural environment, soaking up the warmth from the sun, heat rocks mimic this to warm the vivarium. To ensure the reptiles don't burn themselves, however, a thermostat should always be used to regulate the temperature of the hot rocks.

Heat mats

Thin mats are a great way of adding extra heat to a reptile vivarium, and should be used on cold winter nights or when additional warmth is needed. The heat mats are placed underneath a section of the vivarium and complement the main source of heat. By placing only in one part of the vivarium, the reptile can move to a cooler area when needed. There are different types of heat mats available, including ones designed to mimic warm sand beds of the desert.

Light bulbs

Lights bulbs come in different shapes and sizes to suit the vivarium and are designed to emit heat but not disturb the reptile's sleeping patterns. Different bulbs are available including blue ones that imitate moonlight and give off just a small amount of heat, and ones designed for desert-dwelling reptiles which have a higher UVB output. Both a thermostat and barrier are needed to keep the heat constant and ensure the reptile can't come into contact with the bulb.

Aquapet supply a full range of glass reptile vivariums with metal mesh removable tops and front sliding glass doors to match all budgets and requirements.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Common Behavior From Bearded Dragons

All reptile lovers and even non reptile lovers are bound to be fascinated by the bearded dragon's behavior. This Australian lizard is awake during the day and this means that owners will be able to spend their waking hours observing their reptile friends. Through observing your pet you will become more familiar with their behavior patterns and their sometimes unusual habits.

Dragons are social creatures and although much of their time is spent basking on hot surfaces, other common characteristics of the desert living lizard include tree climbing, bonding, napping and hunting. By nature the bearded dragon is very docile and although they are active hunters they spend much of their time together and in some cases actually sitting on top of each other. As with most other species, male and female dragons display different behavioral patterns and these differences become very evident during mating season.

With the need to impress and attract female admirers, a dominant lizard will bob their head to indicate their readiness and willingness to mate. In return a lady dragon will be happy to wave her arms and bob her head at the male counterpart. Strangely the arm waving is also a common behavioral pattern of the male species and in fact, this unusual 360 degree arm waving ritual was used to first name these creatures. A bearded dragon was originally referred to as the "Tata Dragon" or the "Goodbye Dragon". The arm waving behavior is not a greeting and although part of the mating process the peculiar wave is performed by the native Australian lizard to lower their body temperatures. Considering these guys live in the scorching hot deserts, one may expect a lot of arm waving when in their natural habitats. Owners have also noticed that the pace of the wave flapping may also be an indication of the mood of the dragon whereby slow waving movements indicates a calm relaxed mood, while rapid arm flapping is a sign of aggression.

Brumation is the term used to describe the bearded dragon's hibernation period and even though they do not sleep as the word hibernation suggests the lizards rather 'shut down' their systems and go into hiding. Hibernation tends to last for around four weeks and while in this state of shut down, dragons consume less and this will result in severe weight loss. Hibernation is a natural phase for dragons in their yet pet owners keeping them in captivity should not encourage this behavior by stimulating the winter period, unless they intend to breed the dragons.

Burrowing and digging are other common behaviors of this fascinating reptile and burrowing can be a sign of various things. A female bearded dragon will dig a burrow when she is ready to deposit her eggs, while both male and females will burrow to take a nap or to turn in for the evening. Those who keep the lizards will also discover that burrowing can also be an indication that their pet is stressed and needs some time out. If burrowing continues for a long period of time, owners should be alerted that their pet is stressed, or may be ill.

Biting is part of the bearded dragon's normal behavior pattern and they will bite for any number of reasons. Mating females often bite their male suitors during energetic mating. Biting will also occur if the lizards are hungry, threatened, taunted or scared. A self-defense behavior pattern or mechanism is to wave their arms furiously, open their mouths while emitting strange hissing type sounds, followed by a fast dashing motion and trying to make their bodies as flat as possible.

In general, bearded dragons are passive and social creatures and if they are cared for well and never taunted, these arm flapping, head bobbing lizards make for extraordinary pets. As opposed to many other ordinary pets, dragons will need to receive continual care and attention and if received in the right dosage, pet owners in turn, will be rewarded with the opportunity to witness the somewhat peculiar, yet enlightening behavior of the bearded dragon.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Treating Your Chameleon for Coccidia

So you have a chameleon and everything is going great. That is until one day you notice that your little friend is not eating as much. There is a chance that he/she has coccidia. So how do you treat for this? There are several steps that should be taken in the treatment of coccidia.

First, you are going to want to take your chameleon to the vet. The more experience your vet has with chameleons the better. Let them take a look at it to confirm that it is coccidia. To do this they will need a fresh fecal sample. Get a plastic bag and a paper towel. Grab the sample with the paper towel and place it in the bag. Get as much air out as possible and place it in the fridge until you are able to go to the vet.

Once they have confirmed that it is coccidia it is time to get the medication for treatment. There are several different medications out there to treat this sickness. However, not every one of these is suitable for a chameleon. Albon, for instance, is used by many to treat coccidia. Although it is popular, it is not the best choice. If you use this you will find that by the second or third day your chameleon is no longer eating at all. Medications, such as albon, can cause more harm than good.

There is a medication out there that is perfect for treating coccidia. It is called ponazuril and is the best at its job. Most of the other medications will only decrease the number of coccidia present, but ponazuril will actually kill them. There are usually no side effects of this drug and it is fairly cheap to purchase. Usually it is used on horses and therefore it can be expensive. Just tell your vet that it must be specially compounded to be able to use for your chameleon. Don't take anything else that is recommended to treat coccidia. You will be able to both take care of the problem as well as shorten time of treatment by using ponazuril.

So now that you have the drug it is time to use it. There are two ways of doing this. The first way is to allow the chameleon to climb onto you. You will take the syringe and measure the directed dose. You must now get the chameleon to open its mouth. This can be tricky at times. You can try squirting it into the mouth when it is eating food or just inject the food itself with the medication. If you choose to inject the food you will need to make sure that the bug itself is large enough. Larger silkworms and larger crickets are great for injecting into. There is actually a third way of getting the chameleon to take the ponazuril. By getting it to hiss and open its mouth the medicine can easily be delivered into the open mouth. However, I would not recommend this technique because of the stress it can cause.

While the chameleon is being treated, it is important to make sure the area in which it is being kept is constantly clean. Any fecal matter that you see needs to immediately be cleaned. Once a week you should empty the entire enclosure and clean everything thoroughly. For this step, you will need to purchase a forty volume clear developer solution. This can be purchased at your local beauty supply shop. Poor into a spray bottle and spray everything down outside with the solution. Let it sit in the sun for ten minutes. After it is done sitting, scrub and rinse. Continue these steps as much as desired...the more the better. It may make the cleaning process easier by having just the basics in the enclosure. Something to climb on and a place to hide as well as a basking spot. By doing this you will decrease the time it takes to clean the enclosure as well as the amount of areas that could possibly house the coccidia.

After about two treatments, take another fecal sample back to the vet to see the progress that has been made. There may need to be continued treatments, but coccidia can usually be taken care of by two good treatments with ponazuril. After the coccidia is gone continue the cleaning steps for another month or so. You will be surprised what these simple steps can do for the health of your chameleon!

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Leopard Gecko Information About Origination, Care, And Morphs

Perhaps the most popular type of gecko in the world, the leopard gecko is known for being very easy to care for. Both beginners and experts have found that handling them and caring for them is more of a joy than a responsibility.

One aspect that makes these creatures so popular is that they come in a variety of vibrant and unique colors. These colors have been changing through the years of breeding.

There are also different morphs that they have, which include carrot-tail, tangerine, tremper albino, Las Vegas (rainwater) albino, bell albino, reverse stripe, stripe, red stripe, giant, jungle, APTOR, RAPTOR, line bred snow, patternless, mack snow, enigma, blizzards, and eclipse. These morphs have been successfully bred together by breeders to create all the different variations. Each one has such a unique look that it is very simple to see why they are so majestic in the world of lizards.

Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India are the regions from which these geckos originated. They can grow up to 12 inches long and weigh over 100 grams when in captivity. The babies are normally about 3 inches long and weigh about 3 grams.

They are terrestrial, which means that they like living in the ground. Leopard geckos are also nocturnal, which means they hunt and are active at night. These animals can live for up to 20 years if they are properly cared for. In order to keep your lizard thriving as it would in the wild, you need to provide some essential things in your lizard's life.

Geckos need a very humid habitat, so that they can shed their skin properly. Also, you may provide your leopard gecko with a shed box. This is a box that has damp sphagnum moss in it. The dampness will help aid the gecko in shedding.

Your leopard gecko also needs to have a nutritious diet. Any extra fat they carry is stored in their tails, because they might need it in case of a shortage on food. Healthy leopard geckos have fat tails.

Another thing that leopard geckos need is light and heat. A temperature gradient is necessary for it to live. This means that part of the cage is warm and part of it is cool so that the lizard can change its body temperature on its own.

Leopard geckos do carry diseases and also salmonella, so you should always keep your hands clean and washed after holding your gecko or touching its environment. Geckos are becoming very popular and are continuing to be one of the most kept reptiles as pets. Breeders are also continuing to breed new and different specimens.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Ball Python Genetics 101 - 2

Advanced Genetic Definitions
Allele - either of the two paired genes which can affect an inheritable trait (one from the father, one from the mother). A wild type allele, together with another wild type alleles, produces a normal individual. A changed, or mutant, allele can block or divert a biochemical pathway to produce a phenotype that is different from the wild type.

Locus - a gene or allele's position on a chromosome (plural: loci) Most mutations appear on separate Locations of the chromosome. Allowing multiple mutant allele to be in place at once. Allowing for Double, Triple and perhaps endless combinations of genetic traits.

Amelanistic - having no melanin. (Albinos)

Axanthic - having no yellow color. (Axanthics)

Hypomelanistic - an animal having less black and/or brown color than a wild-type. (Ghosts)

Leucistic - a pure white animal with dark eyes. (Leucys)

Melanistic - abnormally dark, especially due to an increase of melanin. (Sables)

Xanthic - having more yellow color than wild-type. ("Caramel" Albino)

Super Form- commonly used Ball Python term for the (homozygous) dominant form of a co-dominant mutation. Super Cinnamon, Super Pastel, Super Phantom, Super Enchi Pastel

P generation - two unique animals that begin a breeding program.

F1 generation - first generation offspring of a P generation breeding.

F2 generation - second generation offspring resulting from orginal P generation breeding. The offspring of two F1s.

F3 generation - third generation offspring resulting from orginal P generation breeding. The offspring of two F2s.

So there are the most popular breeds out there right now. These babies come with a high price most of the time as well, so get ready to shell out if you want some.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Leopard Gecko Feed - How to Do It Properly?

Leopard gecko feed is one of the most challenging parts of caring for this exotic pet animal. Geckos are one of the most docile, intriguing, challenging, and pretty colorful reptiles and feeding them properly will definitely impact on their overall health and appearance. Don't get intimidated! Let me show you how.

Feeding them is quite amusing and informative as well, it is not the simple fill-a-bowl type. Although there are numerous nutritional and complete diet commercial pre-packed leopard gecko food in pet stores it is best to provide them with a variety of food. Feeding them is not just to satisfy their hunger but most importantly is to meet their natural instinct to hunt for food or catch prey for food.

So, what are the foods leopard's desires? They love to eat crickets. Purchase the crickets from a pet store and not from the outside garden that you commonly found. Who knows where those crickets have been, they might have gone to yards with fertilizers, weed killers, or even pesticides. If given geckos with this kind of meal, the poisonous chemicals they have consumed may transfer to your pet and may affect their health. The crickets I was referring to are the specially bred ones that are in captivity and are raised solely as reptile food.

When purchasing the cricket in your favorite reptile store, make sure that it is the correct size. How to determine the correct size? Just look at your gecko's head. Leopard gecko feed on crickets that are not wider than half the width of his head. For the young leopard's they prefer the pinhead crickets while the adult gecko can devour the full size adult cricket.

Preparing the feeding time - Do not just feed the crickets yet, there are preparations that needs to be done first. With a plastic bag, place the desired number of crickets for feeding. We will "gut load" the crickets one day before the scheduled feeding. What is gut loading? It is the adding of calcium and other nutrients to your crickets to make them very nutritious to your geckos. How to gut load? Inside the plastic bag, dust the crickets with calcium powder, close the plastic and shake it until the crickets are coated all over. After which these crickets may also be served with grated carrots and water to feed them as well during the 24 hours of gut loading. Calcium powder is an essential element for your pet's bone.

Quantities may vary depending on the age of your pet however, a start of 5-6 crickets per meal is sufficient. If ever geckos cannot finish all just decrease the number next time around. Baby leopards must be fed daily while the adult may be fed once for every two days.

The next day your leopard gecko is ready to feed on the gut loaded crickets. Just place them inside the tank they are not appropriate for bowls since it is in their nature to be jumping around. More so, that is the purpose why crickets are fed to your geckos in order to stimulate their hunting instinct for food. Your gecko will be just happy and satisfied in catching their food.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Real Origin of Bearded Dragons

Bearded dragons make great pets and well cared for, they last for a decade or so. Once you have decided to take a bearded dragon home as a pet, the environment you provide for him needs to closely reflect the habitat he is accustomed to.

Beardies originate and currently live in the deserts and woodland of Central Australia. They spend much of their time in trees and bushes as well as on rocks, basking in the hot sun. When the weather is very hot and reach near 100 degrees Fahrenheit, dragons bury themselves underground to cool down. Being cold blooded, they frequently need to find a balance in temperatures to keep their temperature constant.

The origin of these dragons have exposed them to blinding heat full of UVA and UVB sunlight as well as cooler places to rest such as beneath rocks, under leaves or underground.

For this reason, you need to mimic their natural environment by giving them a source for hot, bright light and cooler sections in their enclosure. Having been accustomed to very little water in the dessert they have originated from, too much water in their enclosure will not be very good for your beardie. Misting or droplets falling form leaves are best for helping your dragon stay hydrated.

These dragons are both omnivores and diurnal. They forage for food like small lizards, insects, mammals, flowers, fruit and other plants in the daytime. Wild beardies are accustomed to catching wild, live insects that have not been exposed to insecticides and small mice themselves.

Nowadays, bearded lizards are bred in captivity worldwide. This is because exporting them from Australia are illegal and for some species, very limited. Bearded pets that are bred in captivity are just as healthy as wild bearded dragons. If you are not a native of Australia, you will be able to find a beardie at your nearest pet shop or online.

Beardies are also called the yellow-headed bearded dragon or he central bearded dragon. Belonging to the genus pogona, this pet is scientifically named the pogona vitticeps or amphibolurus vitticeps.
Physical Characteristics:

Yellow or tan in color, bearded dragons are called "bearded" because they have a "flaring out" ability in their skin throat area when threatened. The word "dragon" comes from the Australian word for "lizard." A flat body, this "beard" becomes quite pronounced when the dragon is feeling alarmed. There are spines on the side of the wedge-shaped head, the side of the body and a tail that is almost as long as its body.

It is not easy to distinguish the females from the males when the beardies are hatchlings. In adults, however, sexual differences are apparent. Males can be distinguished form the females because of their femoral pores, larger heads and darker beards.

A well-cared for bearded dragon in captivity can live about eight to twelve years. There have been reports of "beardies" living up to fifteen years old, however.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Step By Step Process For Feeding Leopard Geckos

Feeding your leopard gecko is an important part in taking care of a live animal. These lizards are insectivores, which means they like to eat bugs. A full-grown gecko will need to be fed every other day and a younger gecko will need many meals throughout the day.

There are many bugs and insects that can be fed to these animals. Cockroaches, mealworms, crickets, silkworms, and superworms are most commonly fed to them. A pinkie mouse is a slightly larger treat that you should only give them at certain times. Pinkie mice can become very addicting. Waxworms are also a special treat that should only be given out at rare times. Make sure that when you give your gecko a treat, it is small enough so that the lizard does not choke.

Another important aspect of feeding your leopard gecko is the amount that you should feed them. A larger gecko may be able to eat about 8 crickets, while a small gecko may eat only 4. Leopard geckos should be fed in one sitting.

Unfinished live food should be taken out of the cage, for crickets have been known to gnaw on geckos if left with it too long. This will definitely cause the lizard to become stressed out and possibly sick. If you can put the leftovers in a separate container in the cage, that is okay. Just make sure the other container is covered so the food doesn't find a way out.

Insects that you feed your leopard gecko should be full of nutrition. That is why it is a good idea to gutload the food one day before feeding it to your pet. Gutloading food means you stuff the insect with different foods such as healthy fruits or grains.

You can also put supplements on top of the insects directly before putting them in the cage to be eaten. Make sure you are aware that the food will lose its nutrition if the bugs are left to long without being eaten. Baby geckos that eat supplemented insects may live longer and thrive in the future.

One last thing you should do is make sure the geckos have fresh water at all times in their area. All animals need water and these animals are no exception, so be sure to change their water regularly.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Leopard Tail Gecko As A Creative Way For Kids To Like Carrots

If you've been around the gecko world for a while, or even become familiar with common pet lizards, there's a good chance you've been exposed to the leopard tail gecko. Specifically, the "carrot tail" is one of the most sought after of all varieties, due to its unique coloration and patterns.

As with most any animal, in the habitat where the leopard tail gecko is found in the wild, you can find any number of species and subspecies. Interestingly, however, some thirty years ago, when leopard tail geckos were first brought into the United States, nobody really knew who's who in the zoo. As a result, there was quite a bit of breeding across species. The result was a radically diverse gene pool. With so much variation in available options, there came to be some remarkable and expansive combinations.

Ironically, it was a lot of the different morphs that came to be so desirable. There were remarkable changes in size and color that represented distinctions from what used to be thought of as normal. What was handy was the fact that the cross-breeding resulted in rather constant alterations in the genetics, and the favored traits could then be bred for with some degree of regularity. This is why we have the leopard tail gecko and, specifically, the carrot tail version. Especially children are drawn to the nice colors. Who said kids don't like carrots?

What's so ironic is that genetic mutations are considered liabilities in the wild, as they can be weaknesses that make them more susceptible to predators. For instance, a bright orange tail might not exactly be the best form of camouflage. By contrast, in you home aquarium, these make for some of the most attractive pets. And you find that specimens such as the Murphy Patternless, Enigmas, and Blizzards do exceptionally well. Maybe a "combo morph" R.A.P.T.O.R., co-dominant Giant, complete dominant Macksnow, or poly-genetic S.H.T.C.T. is headed to your home aquarium!

There are a few things you might want to know about the carrot leopard tail gecko. This particular version of leopard tail gecko will have a notable amount of orange pigment in the tail; in fact, it needs a fifteen percent coverage in order to be a true carrot tail. While the color is generally at the base, some of these leopard tail geckos may have the bulk of their tail colored orange.

Here are some other facts that will be helpful to boost your leopard tail gecko knowledge as it pertains to the carrot tail variety. A great example is the Albey's Tangerine strain, as well as the R.A.P.T.O.R.. It's a common occurrence in the Murphy Patternless, as well as the Hypo morphs and the various Tangerines. The three different albino versions feature a carrot tail, so look for it in the Tremper, Rainwater, as well as the Bell. The Blizzards are also known to feature it from time to time.

In the world of the leopard tail gecko, know that the carrot tail is line bred. This means that you will tend to get a carrot tail where two carrot tails are bred. Yet, another way to up the odds of getting the carrot tail is to use leopard tail geckos where they have a larger than usual amount of orange.

Many amateur breeders have begun trying to selectively breed for the carrot tail. If you have leopard tail geckos that a prone to throw the carrot trait, this can be fun to do. But, before you get going and have great success, think about how much room you have to devote to your leopard tail gecko operation. You need to think about the possibility that they may not sell right away, assuming that's what you want to do. So, you could end up will a number of animals to care for until you sell them. It's just important to think about that so you don't view your success as a mixed because you weren't fully prepared.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Different Strains Of The Albino Leopard Gecko

Albino leopard geckos were first bred in 1991. Most of the excitement came from the awesome colors and pattern mutations that could be created.

There are three different strains of these albino geckos, including Bell, Rainwater and Tremper. These traits are all recessive, meaning that breeding two of them together would result in a normal leopard gecko.

Recessive traits are normally discovered randomly by mutating genes that control development of the animal. There is no way to determine the probability of finding some new recessive trait. It is based upon luck.

It is extremely hard to determine the different strains of albino leopard geckos. Sometimes you just have to make a guess as to which gecko you are looking at. Although it is hard to find out which strain is which, the Tremper strain is the most common of the three. The Tremper strain was the first of the three strains to be found, and because of the brownish color that some of these geckos have, they are sometimes called the "Mocha Strain". Usually, however, they are pink or white in color.

The eyes of these geckos can be very unique, having a pink or even dark red coloring. You cannot depend on eye color to tell the difference however, because some of them have completely normal eyes. The different temperatures at which these geckos are incubated at are what determine the color of their skin and eyes. If the temperature of incubation is higher, the gecko will normally turn out darker.

The Rainwater albino is the second in rareness. Many think this gecko has a pinkish color, however this is normally untrue. The Bell strain is the gecko that has the pinkest coloring. It is the rarest of the strains and is normally a lot darker than the two other strains. Knowing this is another factor that helps us determine the difference between the strains.

Not only does the Bell albino normally have the darkest pink coloring, it also has the reddest eyes. This red coloring usually changes in other animals as they become adults, but it does not change for the Bell albino. Its eyes do, however, remain sensitive to light its entire life, so they prefer to eat during the nighttime.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

How to Take Care of a Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pets worldwide, and certainly the most popular reptile, for one reason, and one reason alone. They are incredibly easy to care for, and generally don't struggle with too many health problems. If you want to know how to take care of a leopard gecko, then just read this, and you'll know.

To set up a good home for a "leo", you don't need anything larger than a standard 10-gallon aquarium. Larger is, of course, better, but if you're in a tight space, or you can't afford a larger aquarium, then you're still able to get one of these lizards. As for furnishings, a simple reptile carpet is far better than any loose substrate like sand. On top of that, you'll need at least two different caves or houses for them to hide under, and a water bowl. You might want to get another bowl for mealworms, but that's up to you.

Outside of the aquarium, you'll want to get an undertank heater, which will be the primary source of heat for your creatures. Stick it to one side of the tank so that you can create a hot side and a cool side, so that your leopard gecko can hang out at one side or another depending on whether he or she wants to be hot or cold.

Once you get the tank set up for your gecko, then taking care of a leopard gecko is pretty simple. You'll need to feed them once every second day or so, and fill their water bowl when it runs low, but maintenance is pretty simple. Leopard geckos do not produce liquid waste, and tend to defecate in the same spot all the time, so when you find out where that spot is, all you need to do is put a napkin down in that corner, and remove it when it's dirty.

Your lizard will pretty much take care of themselves after that. They eat crickets and mealworms primarily, so you'll need to visit the pet store from time to time to get more of those items. You can handle them easily once they get used to you poking around in their aquarium and will work out as a wonderful pet for you to raise.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The New Diablo Blanco Red Leopard Gecko

There is a new breed of leopards known as the Diablo Blanco which is genetically a pattern-less gecko with a complete red-eye. This new red-eye leopard gecko or the Diablo Blanco may or may not be all completely red, some possess only with one or more eyes being 50% of the solid red and the other one acquires the solid red color in both eyes.

Actually this new morph called the Diablo Blanco has three eye variations and only two body variants. As of now there are only two categories of this kind: the Blanco's and the Diablo Blanco.

The Blanco is also a genetically pattern-less gecko, only they have the normal colored eyes of an albino. The head, body, and tail color is white. Although some Blanco's may possess a yellowish color in their body, it may be totally wiped out through selective breeding of the next generation.

The other category is called the Diablo Blanco, this variety possess the complete or partial red-eyed color leopard gecko. Just like the raptor morph, there can also be a snake-eyed Diablo Blanco. That would mean that there could be one or more eyes that will have only half of the solid red color and there could also be a gecko with the two eyes being solid red. The best quality of this morph may possess a complete white skin from head to tail with two vividly solid red eyes.

How did these breed came about?

This is the result of cross breeding of the snowy white Tremper Albino "Blazing Blizzard" females with the best raptor male available as well as breeding those het offspring together. It is definitely not the cross breeding of two Blazing Blizzard's with a pure Blizzard and miraculously came up with a new variety of a red-eye morph. Never yet in the history has that, two Blazing Blizzard geckos produced an all red-eyed leopards.

The Diablo Blanco variety, act as a recessive trait just like the other albino morph. When mixed together, they will produce the same characteristics, traits, and appearance of that of the parents.
The New Diablo Blanco red-eye leopard gecko is a new variety from trial breeding of hobbyist. With patience and painstaking observation of their pets they have finally produced a beautiful flawless white with the possibility of having two solid red eyes lizards. Producing your own new gecko variety greatly depends on your creativity. Study about these reptiles and try to cross-bred it yourself and be able to produce a unique and beautiful variety that can be called your own.

Find out more about this red-eyed leopard geckos; how to care for them and what to feed them. Are they the same with other leopard geckos?

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Top Tips for Your Bearded Dragon Enclosure

By Todd S. Miller Todd S. Miller
Level: Basic PLUS

Todd is a reptile lover of all kinds, he favors Beared Dragons, Geckos, and anoles. He has been studing and raising reptiles since he was ...

There is a lot of advice and information out there today about bearded dragon enclosures and the dos and don'ts of how to set one up.

The enclosure is very important for the healthy and happiness of your beardie, since this is will he/she will be spending a great of their time. So it is important that it be set as close to their natural habitat as possible.

Here are some basic tips you can consider when setting up your bearded dragon enclosure.

You want to use a glass aquarium for best results. Other material such as plastic will decrease the UV rays that they need.You want to have at least 2 thermometers inside the enclosure. These lizards need both a hot side and a cool side so they can regulate their own temperatureThere should be a screen top that slides forward. This is the best way, it makes feeding them and taking them out easier. The screen also helps with regulating the temperature and keeping unwanted pests outFor the flooring area, this is a big issue with owners some say sand, some say newspapers, etc, the best thing for your beardie is to use reptile carpet. Bearded dragons use the tongues to eat, which are sticky, so they will be eating the sand and/or newspapers or whatever you put in there. With carpet they can not digest this so it is best.There should be a water dish at the cool end of the enclosure at all timesYou should provide a branch or something that the beardie can climb on, these guys like to perch, but they are not climbersYou will also need 2 different types of lighting, one that provides proper heating and one that produces the right UV raysThey also need adequate heating, the best way to do this is by using an under the tank heating pad. DO NOT use any type of heating rock or device inside the enclosure. Beardies are not always the smartest and can harm themselves with heating devices.

When it comes to the proper care of your bearded dragon knowing and understanding what they need and their natural habitat is important. Follow the tips above and you will have a healthy and happy beardie for a long time.

This article has been viewed 13 time(s).
Article Submitted On: December 17, 2010

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Discover The Amazing Facts of Bearded Dragons

Reptiles are amazing creatures and are becoming more popular, especially the bearded dragon. Some important yet interesting facts on bearded dragons that most don't even know about.

These reptiles are very docile, meaning that they are calm and easy to handle. They love interacting with their human owners. They originate from Australia's desert area and like the hot and humid environment. Keeping this in mind if you are planning on getting one, they need special heating and lighting to stay healthy. They also do not grow very big, usually around 7 inches to 12 inches which makes them easy to keep even if you live in an apartment.

Many mistakenly think these guys eat only live prey, but that is not true at all. They love vegetables like leafy greens, carrots, and a variety of fruits. They do need some live prey like crickets and meal worms, this has a lot to do with their age and size.

There are a wide variety of bearded dragons one will see in pet shops and at reptile shows, but the most common one you will see is known as the Inland Dragon. Named for their natural habitat in Australia's mainland area.

These lizards should be kept in a glass tank with one side of their tank being the hot side while the other side is the cool side. They regulate their body heat by switching which are of the tank they will be at. It is very important to keep these temperatures at the proper settings.

They also need what is called a hide box, where they can hide when they feel threatened. When feeling threatened they will also puff up their bearded and it will usually turn black, this helps ward off any predators they might attach them. Most mistaken this as aggressive when it is not at all.

Most bearded dragons will never bite their owners or others. They only act this way to protect themselves.

If you plan on acquiring one of these amazing lizards I hope this has enlightened you on some important facts on bearded dragons. They are well worth owning and you will enjoy them for years to come as long as you properly learning about them and care for them.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Ball Python Feeding Tips

Ball pythons make excellent pet snakes in general, but they sometimes get picky when it comes to food. If you have a ball python that's refusing food, or if you're thinking about getting a ball python and wondering if it's hard to feed them, this article is for you.

First of all, you generally want to feed your snake dead mice and/or rats. Live rodents may bite and seriously injure your pet, and if your ball python is used to eating live preys, it will be pretty hard to revert back to dead ones. Also, it's a lot more convenient to thaw a frozen mouse from your freezer than it is to keep a bunch of live ones in a cage and take care of them, or to make a trip to the pet store every week for your snake's lunch.

If you feed your pet dead preys, though, you sometimes have to fool it into thinking that they're alive. Basically, a ball python relies on smell, body heat and movement when deciding if something is a food item or not. To make sure that your snake eats its prey, it's best to unthaw it and then heat it a little by putting it in a plastic bag and then in a bowl of hot water. Make sure that the bag is waterproof before putting it in the water. You want your prey to be slightly hotter than room temperature, or else your snake might not eat it. Use safe tongs to give it to your snake and wiggle it in front of its face a little if it's hesitant to attack the prey.

Whatever type of prey you choose, feed your snake preys that are as wide or a bit larger than the largest part of its body. Young snakes eat about once a week, adults eat once every two weeks. In general, you should move the snake out of its cage into a different enclosure when feeding it as part of the taming process, so that it associates the other box with eating.

The first thing to do if your ball python refuses food is to examine its environment, as stress is usually the main factor. It needs a few places to hide in its terrarium. The more the better; snakes feel a lot safer when they can easily hide. Also, take a look at the ground temperature of the enclosure. It should be around 90 F (32 C) in the hottest area and at least 75 F (24 C) in the coldest spot. A temperature gradient allows your snake to move around and regulate its body temperature to what is the most comfortable. Definitely put at least one hiding spot in the hottest area and one in the colder one.

If you don't think that the environment is the problem, try feeding your snake in the evening or even during the night. Ball pythons are nocturnal, and that's when they normally hunt. You can also try leaving the prey item in its cage for the night and see if it has eaten it by the next morning.

If that fails too, try live preys. Some snakes will just not eat dead animals, period. If your ball python refuses to eat despite all your efforts, feed it a gerbil. Gerbils are the closest to what ball pythons eat in the wild, so they never ever refuse them. The problem, though, is that they get addicted to them, so really use that as a last resort.

Ball pythons can fast for a few months without losing weight, but definitely consult a vet if it refuses to eat for a while and it leads to weight loss.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Perfect Guide For Taking Care Of Your Carrot Tail Leopard Gecko

In the 1970's, not much was known about these geckos. They were being captured and imported into the United States of America into the pet trade. These geckos are normally grouped into many different kinds of species and subspecies.

The term morph is used to describe different colors, genetics, and/or size in the world of geckos. Traits that are normally passed genetically through future generations are color or pattern. These "morphs" started as a genetic fault and usually made them very different then other geckos. Geckos like these stood out in the wild and were easily found their by different predators.

Today, there are so many leopard gecko morphs that are available. These different morphs include recessive morphs such as Murphy Patternless and Blizzards and dominate morphs such as Enigma. There can also be dominant such as Macksnow, combo such as R.A.P.T.O.R.s, poly genetic such as S.H.T.C.T. and co-dominant morphs like the Giants.

The carrot tail trait is often seen in Albey's Tangerine line and in the R.A.P.T.O.R.s. It has been in many different morphs. This trait is sometimes seen in many other leopard gecko species. These geckos have more of an orange pigment in their tail and it is usually at the base of the tail. However, sometimes the pigment can take over as much as 90 percent of the tail. The tail must be one quarter orange in order for it to be classified as one of the carrot tails.

Sometimes the tail can be completely covered in orange, but this is extremely rare. This trait is line bred. That means that two of these geckos are bred together, and there offspring will normally possess the carrot tail. Orange spots on top of a leopard gecko's head normally characterize the carrot head trait. It is normally exclusive to Tremper Albinos.

You can breed your own leopard geckos, however you should keep in mind the amount of responsibility it is in breeding them. It requires space, time, and resources. Ask yourself what you might do with babies that don't get sold right away and what you will have to do to take care of them.

Carl Kastor is a leopard gecko expert. To view more on how to take care of your carrot tail leopard gecko click here. If you want to learn more about leopard geckos in general and how to take care of them as pets, you can also visit here.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carl_Kastor

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Green Iguana Life Cycle and Characteristics

Green iguanas (Iguana iguana) are a reptile species that is found throughout much of Central and South America and in the Caribbean. This tropical creature does well in hot, humid areas, so it should be no surprise that colonies of iguanas that have descended from escaped pets are actually thriving in parts of Florida, too. The green iguana is one of the most common pet reptiles and also one of the largest reptiles that's commonly kept as a pet.

Appearance of Green Iguanas

The green iguanas are born from eggs, and at the time they hatch they will be about 6-8 inches long. However, within a few years these cute little babies will grow into massive lizards of five to six feet in length. A fully adult iguana weighs an average of fifteen to seventeen pounds.

While juvenile iguanas are typically a bright green color, the name 'green iguana' isn't always an exact fit. They can vary in shade from grayish to emerald green to brown. Their color will depend on their health and mood as well as the temperature and living environment.

You'll notice that adult iguanas have a dewlap, or a flap of skin that hangs down under their chin which is especially noticeable on the males. They have a row of spines running down their neck and back, and also have a third 'eye' known as the parietal eye in the middle of their forehead. The parietal eye is sensitive to light and is associated with the pineal gland. It helps to regulate the iguana's circadian rhythm and also hormone production for thermoregulation. Because of this, it's important that pet iguanas are given periods of light and dark each day, typically 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark.

Green Iguana Habitats

Green iguanas are arboreal lizards, meaning that they prefer to spend their time in the treetops of the jungles where they live. This behavior allows them to bask in the sunshine above the leaves, which is their main method of controlling their body temperature. It also affords them protection from predators, as their body color blends in well with the leaves and shadows. The female iguanas will leave the trees to dig burrows in the ground for laying their eggs. They prefer to live near water and are excellent swimmers. If predators come close, they'll often make a quick escape by diving down into the water and swimming away.

Iguana Development

When iguanas mate, it takes about 65 days until the female is ready to lay her eggs. The number of eggs she'll lay depends on the size of the iguana, but typically there will be from ten to thirty of them. Sometimes, females will share nests, especially in areas where there isn't a lot of space for digging. Females are 'hands-off' mothers, and don't guard their nests, although they will occasionally pop by to visit. The eggs will hatch about 90 days later.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Things To Know About Bullfrogs

By Nail Yener Nail Yener
Level: Basic PLUS

Nail Yener is a part time blogger and web designer who also writes articles on various subjects.

Bullfrogs, Rana catesbeiana, come from the family Ranidae, and live in most parts of North America. They are also called the American Bullfrog. They can be found in medium or large sized ponds, lakes or swamps. During days of rain, bullfrogs, just like other amphibians, go overland and they can be seen in large numbers on the roads of North America.

Bullfrogs have a natural characteristic of living longer in warm weather. Bullfrogs grow up to an average of about 9-15 with their legs adding an additional 17-25 cm. Female bullfrogs have an eardrum the same size as their eyes while males' eardrums are larger relatively. Bullfrogs absorb oxygen and eliminate carbon dioxide through their moist skin, the lining of their mouths and their lungs. When on surface, as opposed to underwater, a bullfrog continuously ventilates itself by continuously elevating and lowering its mouth, also known as the buccal cavity.

Bullfrog eggs hatch in 3-5 days and the time of metamorphosis ranges from a few months to 3 years in northern parts of the continent. Maximum lifespan of bullfrogs is estimated to be around 8-10 years but a captive bullfrog is on record to have lived for a full 16 years.

Research indicates that the Bullfrog feeds on any animal that it can overpower and stuff down its throat, including its own species. Bullfrog stomachs have been found to contain rodents, small turtles, bullfrogs, even bats as well as other invertebrates that are normally the routine food of ranid frogs. These studies conducted on bullfrog dietary trends also reveal that bullfrogs have a unique diet amongst North American Rana to capture and feed on to large and strong aquatic animals. The relative ability of the bullfrog to capture submerged prey versus the green frog, leopard frog and wood frog has been demonstrated in laboratories for understanding purposes.

Human uses of bullfrogs include keeping them as pets. Also, the American bullfrog is used as a specimen for dissection purposes in many medical schools.

Additionally, adult bullfrogs consume insects, annelids, crustaceans et cetera and help in the control of insect pests. Owing to this advantageous ability, bullfrogs have been introduced into many countries of the world, however in South Korea; the American Bullfrog has become a nuisance to the country's ecology because of its appetite!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nail_Yener

This article has been viewed 6 time(s).
Article Submitted On: November 27, 2010

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

4 Different Types of Reptiles

Reptiles are defined by common characteristics including breathing air, laying eggs and having skins covered in scales. In all, there are over 8,000 species of reptiles, divided into 4 main types: Crocodilia, Sphenodontia, Squamata and Testudines.

Crocodilia

There are currently about 23 species of Crocodilia, a type of reptile that includes crocodiles, gharials, caimans and alligators. These reptiles are mainly found in Australia, North and South America, Africa, and Asia. The specific reptiles in this group include American Alligator, Nile Crocodile, Spectacled Caiman and the Gharial. The smallest Crocodilia is the Cuvier's Dwarf Caiman and the largest is the Saltwater Crocodile. This reptile group has a distinct semi-sprawled walk that allows for land gallops when needed. Alligators and caimans are sometimes confused with crocodiles but have wider, shorter heads and a U-shaped rather than V-shaped snout.

Sphenodontia

The smallest of the types of reptiles, the Sphenodontia used to be known for its diversity of species. Now only the Tuatara remains, a reptile that is related to snakes and lizards, and looks like a type of lizard.

Squamata

With almost 8,000 species belonging to this group, the Squamata are different types of snakes and lizards. For example, there are the chameleons, iguanas and geckoes for the lizards, and cobra, constrictors and pythons for the snakes. This group varies widely in sizes, from 16mm to 8metres, and possess quadrate bones which allow them to open their mouths widely - which is why snakes can consume comparatively large prey.

Testudines

These are turtles and tortoises, and there are around 300 different reptiles in this group. Turtles include Mud, Pond, and Snapping Turtles as well as River Terrapin, and tortoises include Impressed, Leopard and Desert Turtles. This group consists of some of the oldest living reptiles, and only the Tuatara is known to be older.

Aquapet supply a full range of glass reptile vivariums with metal mesh removable tops and front sliding glass doors to match all budgets and requirements.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Step By Step Process For Taking Care Of Your Carrot Tail Leopard Gecko

Since 1970, leopard geckos have been researched a lot by scientists and much more has been found out about them. Back 30 years ago, these creatures were captured and imported into the United States into our pet trade. These lizards are sorted into many different species and subspecies.

Geckos that are morphs are described as different in size, color, or genetics from other leopard geckos. Color and pattern are two different traits that are usually passed from generation to generation. Geckos that are considered morphs ended up being a genetic fault which made them quite diverse. Predators can easily find them because they stick out in the wild like a sore thumb.

The different amount of leopard gecko morphs that you can find today is massive. There are the Murphy Patternless and Blizzard morphs which are recessive, and the dominate morphs like Enigma and Macksnow. One type of combo morph is called R.A.P.T.O.R. Another morph that is poly genetic is called S.H.T.C.T. The final morph, which is co-dominant, is called the Giant morph.

Geckos that have a trait called carrot tail are normally found in Albey's Tangerine line and R.A.P.T.O.R.s. They have been found in several different morphs. Many other leopard gecko species possess this trait. It is called the carrot tail trait because the lizard has more orange pigment in the tail that normal. The coloring usually is at the base of the tail, but it can also take up 90 percent of the coloring in the tail. In order for one of these animals to be classified as being a carrot tail, it must have a tail that is at least 25 percent orange.

In rare cases, this trait can make the tail turn completely orange. This is called a line bred trait, which means that breeding two of these specific geckos together would give the offspring a great chance of possessing the same trait. Sometimes, lizards with this trait will also have orange spots on their head. This usually is only the case with Tremper Albinos.

Breeding your own leopard geckos takes a ton of responsibility, patience, and time. You need to have the right amount of resources and space if you are going to take on this task. Make sure you can be in charge of all these aspects before even considering breeding them.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Important Information About Big Leopard Geckos

Have you ever thought about what makes some animals so unique? Some are very poisonous. Others are extremely beautiful. Some animals are just plain different from the rest. Big leopard geckos are one of these unique animals.

To understand what a big leopard gecko is, you must first know what a regular sized leopard gecko is. They can vary in size and weight but are normally about 4 to 5 inches long and weigh less than 100 grams. Big leopard geckos have "giant genes", which means that they grow to sizes much larger than normal geckos. These lizards can weigh over 165 grams and can grow to a foot in length. Normally, however, they range from about 7 to 9 inches long.

The thing that I want to talk about is the fact that these animals have a trait called "giant genes". This means that normal geckos possessing this trait breed, which makes their offspring much larger. As you can imagine, this is making the species extremely rare and difficult to find. Once they are found however, they are very expensive. Some can even be as much as 1250 dollars.

Breeders around the world have been finding geckos with these traits and are using it to their full advantage. The one thing that they cannot control is which geckos possess these traits. That is why researchers have been trying to find a way to control which animals do have the trait, which would therefore make them very rich.

If you are desperate to buy one of these unique animals, then you had better start researching right away. Use your phonebook to look for different leopard gecko breeders in the yellow pages. Call all of them to see if they have these oversized lizards. If you cannot seem to find any breeders in the phonebook, then the internet is your next best friend. The internet provides unlimited information about all different kinds of rare and unique animals. You are bound to find some information on where to go to buy one of these creatures.

If you have searched over and over again, and still cannot seem to find a place to buy one of these animals, search again! Keep researching the internet until you are completely lost on ideas. If you have absolutely looked everywhere that you can online, then your next option is to go to a pet store to see if they know of any big leopard gecko breeders. If this act fails, then you need to do some more research. Keep your spirits up and you will soon come across the perfect find.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

How to Care For a Pet Box Turtle

Box turtles are small terrestrial animals. There are four main species that are kept as pets: Eastern Turtle, Three-Toed Turtle, Gulf Coast Turtle, and Ornate Turtle. Each of these turtles can grow to be anywhere from three to seven inches, and will weigh anywhere from five to ten pounds.

They are a long term commitment as they have a life span that can exceed 50 years, if they are well cared for. There are four main species of box turtles, and they each have their own particular diet.

Eastern: Half their diet should be vegetables, fruits, and grasses, and the remainder should be low fat protein, such as worms, snails, and grasshoppers.

Three-Toed: Half their diet should be vegetables, fruits, and grasses, and the remainder should be low fat protein, such as worms, snails, and grasshoppers.

Gulf Coast: About 40% their diet should be vegetables, fruits, and grasses, and the remainder should be low fat protein, such as worms, snails, and grasshoppers.

Ornate: These are carnivorous when they are young. Calcium dusted crickets and worms should be fed. Grasses and vegetables can also be given, but in minority.

These types of turtles are land animals, and as a result, they should be in a terrarium or outdoors. Most experts say that box turtles should be outdoors in a pen as much as possible, temperatures permitting. If they are kept indoors, they will need a temperature regulated terrarium, that has a reptile light that can shine both UVA and UVB rays.

Box turtles make great pets and are fairly easy to care for.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Reptile Shows Are A Must

We visited our first reptile show on Sunday (26th September 2010) - The International Herpetological Society Show at The Dome in Doncaster UK.

With excitement, we set off on Saturday night for an overnight stay in High Melton, near Doncaster. Arriving at nearly 1am it had been a long day. We were up early on Sunday morning and raring to go, we were about to go to a hall full of reptiles and other critters for sale. It was very exciting.

We arrived, later than we wanted to be, and the queue although circular was massive. We waited patiently for just over half an hour, and we were finally in! For the first minute or so, we stood there open mouthed, agog at the tables set out in front of us, full of reptiles looking for new homes.

Once we got our tongues back in our mouths, we started moving around the tables - there were snakes, lizards, invertebrates and equipment, all at good prices! We were smiling, excited as we saw what was available to us. Everywhere we turned there were critters that took our eye! Way too many bearded dragons and leopard geckos for our liking, and corn snakes galore. Such a shame - we could not afford to buy them all and were looking for something different to offer Critterish Allsorts customers.

As we walked around, we noticed that there was an exotic mammals section upstairs. OMG! We ventured upstairs. A tiny room lined with tables full of tiny furry critters, the most memorable being lemmings and pygmy hedgehogs - especially the cinnacot one, but with a price tag of 125 it was way out of our price range.

Back inside the hall, we were astonished at some of the animals we saw. A breeding pair of albino gopher snakes, which were stunning, some amazing insects but most noticeably a file snake - an incredible animal with very rough scales and an almost triangular shape. I held it briefly and it was amazing, i fell in love. They are incredibly hard to find, and this one was not for sale, but I put my name down to be notified when they do become available.

There were python morphs available at prices upwards of 1500! We had been round the room twice, when I said to my wife "We need to start buying stuff now or we will start missing out". We came across a table full of milk snakes and kingsnakes (babies) - this was where we chose our first purchase - Queenie, our Chihuahua Mountain Kingsnake. Smiling and revelling in her beauty. We continued around the hall, looking at the tables, considering our options. We looked at and handled many critters, eventually coming to a table laden with all sorts of critters - baby geckos, baby snakes, tortoises, amphibians. My wife noticed a baby corn snake - although we had said no more corn snakes (we already had 2), this one was labelled as "reject" and priced as a give away, pet only. She was beautiful, but had a slight genetic defect - a kinked spine, not for breeding. Well we took one look at Ivy out of her box and could not resist - we would give her a loving home. On the same table i spotted the axolotls - I have wanted one since seeing one at Chester Zoo as a child on a school trip! I bought them both!

So we now had 4 new animals. I had spotted the giant prickly stick insects previously. There were also milk snakes available at this table and we really fancied a milk snake - trouble is the babies are very fast and skittish and could not be taken out. Well we stopped and had another look at the stick insects. They were interesting, and big not to mention only a third of the size they would grow to be! They were so cheaply priced that it was not worth saying no!! An interesting addition to our menagerie!

We continued, and this was when we happened upon what was to become our tangerine Honduran milk snake. A gorgeous orange and black banded reptile with an amazing temperament. He was too highly priced for us, and my wife thought a crested gecko would suit us better. The guy would not move on his price and so we broke for a drink and some lunch. We sat with our friends Gary and Lisa from Gr8 Reps. We compared purchases and congratulated each other on new critters. Then about an hour later we returned to the hall and prices were starting to plummet.

We kept returning to the table with the milk snake, and he kept saying come back later and we'll see what we can do. We went back 3 or 4 times, unable to decide what to do with our last bit of cash! Eventually, we managed to get the milk snake at such a knock down price that we were able to get a crested gecko too - and despite the fact that no body would move on crested gecko prices, we managed to get that one at an absolute steal too:)

If you do go to one of these shows have a budget and do your research. You need to know what you want but you also need to know how to care for, house and feed the critter you are wanting. Can you give it everything it needs? If you cannot provide an animal with everything it needs to live a healthy and comfortable life, then please DO NOT buy it - only buy if you can give, bear in mind that these animals will live for 10-20 years after you have purchased them. They need your love, your commitment, your attention, your care, your money and necessary vet care in their times of need.

Our journey home was full of smiles and excited conversation about our new critters - and we named each and every one!! It was a great fun adventure that I am sure we will repeat in the future!!

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Bearded Dragons Care 101

A great choice of pet for beginning lizard enthusiasts and reptile hobbyists who are more experienced, bearded dragons do require special care. Pet beardies are docile reptiles that breed well in captivity. This is a great choice for pet owners that are thinking of adopting a bearded dragon.

Dragons that are properly cared for can live for up to twelve years. If you are a new bearded dragon pet owner, you need to learn how to care for your pet properly. Properly caring for your bearded dragon includes giving him the proper enclosure, substrate, food, water, lighting and temperature.

Diet

The proper diet is very important for properly caring for your bearded dragon. They are omnivorous which means that they eat insects, vegetables and fruit. You can purchase or catch the insects yourself, although it may be safer to buy insects since the ones you catch yourself may have been exposed to poisonous insecticides. Other insects include cockroaches, earthworms, wax worms, king worms and mealworms. You can feed him all the crickets he can eat in ten minutes and do this for three times daily. Fresh vegetables need to be administered every day.

You can put a pinch of calcium dusting on his food, since he needs this to grow as well. Your beardie cannot recognize standing water, and misting his food with mineral-rich water will keep him hydrated. He also recognizes water dripping down leaves, so you can spray plastic plants with water as well. Keep in mind that too much water is harmful for your bearded dragon, however, since they originate from the dessert.

Housing

For your beardie's housing, provide him with the biggest enclosure that you are able to afford and accommodate. For hatchlings, aquarium-type tanks that are between ten and fifteen gallons are good enough. Adult bearded dragons, however, need a terrarium that is between fifty and fifty-five gallons large. Being semi-arboreal, enclosures need to be rectangular, which means that they need to longer rather than taller.

Make sure that the housing you provide has a screen lid rather than using wood, glass or Plexiglas, which hinder air circulation. For the flooring or the substrate of your enclosure, do not put sand if your beardie is under the age of six months old, since they tend to eat sand at this age. The best flooring substrate would be paper towels, vinyl or tiles.

Lighting

Proper lighting is one more aspect of bearded dragon care that you need to take into consideration. Aside from a bright daytime light bulb, your lizard requires a special UVB light to manufacture the vitamin D3 it needs to metabolize calcium. To properly care for your bearded dragon, you need to provide it with fourteen hours of very bright light and ten hours of darkness.

Temperature

Gradient temperature in the enclosure of your pet also needs to be provided. Bearded dragons are cold blooded and move from one side of his cage to another in order to keep his temperature even. One side of his space needs to be between ninety-five and one hundred degrees Fahrenheit for basking, while the other side needs to be between seventy-five and eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit. In the evenings, the temperature needs to be lower than seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The area for basking needs to be between one hundred and one hundred-five degrees Fahrenheit.

Brumation

Dragons do not hibernate but do tend to slow down during the wintertime. This means that they may take a few weeks off and barely touch their food and hide away. This only applies to adult bearded dragons since younger ones under eighteen months of age need to eat regularly.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

A Guide To Bearded Dragons Sexing

In order to determine the sex of a bearded dragon the lizard should be held in the palm of the hand. The tail should be facing the onlooker and the tail must be gently lifted to allow a clear view of the ventral opening. The ventral opening is located just at the base of the tail and while sexing bearded dragons, caregivers must be mindful not to bend the tail too far toward the head of the dragon. This action may result in a break in the vertebra. The male species of the dragons have two bulges at the ventral opening, while the female dragon usually has one bulge, but it is not uncommon for the lady lizard to have no bulge whatsoever.

This 'tail up' method of sexing is the most accurate method, as unlike many other species, female and males do not have obvious sexing characteristics. Both sexes are known to do the 'dragon wave' however, the female will perform this strange waving motion in an attempt to indicate her readiness to mate. There are experienced breeders who have the ability to spot the slight appearance differences between the dragons. These signs or differences between the sexes, can include a darker beard, a thicker tail base and a larger head size. These are the general characterizes of the male lizard. These are not always accurate signs to look for when sexing dragons and generally the tail lifting method is preferred.

The visible bulge that is present at the base of the male's tale is due to the two 'hemi-penises'. Femoral pores, in some cases can also be clearly seen when determining the sex of your pet. Because these pores are very distinctive in the male lizards, and not always seen on the female lizard, this can also aid during bearded dragon sexing. As a rule the female lizards never have femoral pores, which mean that a lizard with the femoral pores is always a male.

If sexing is being done with the hope of breeding a pair of dragons, it is important to remember that a female dragon should be no younger than two years of age. If the lizard is immature, she will experience complications during breeding. There are cases of lizards being too young to breed and this leads to the female being unable to deposit the clutch of eggs. This results in a blockage and may cause the immature female lizard's death. If uncertain about the lizard's readiness to breed, a prospective breeder is urged to seek professional advice.

Once the process of sexing the reptiles has been accurately carried out, and the caregiver is satisfied that they have a male and female pair - lizards in captivity require human intervention in order to breed. The breeder will need to simulate the breeding season, which is usually winter or late autumn and this is easily done by simply lowering the temperature (slightly) in the lizard's lair and reducing the amount of daylight hours.

Those who are new to the world of these incredible reptiles will soon learn how to easily spot the differences between the male and female species. Once ready to breed, this process will prove to be a rewarding and fascinating experience. Many online video clips have been posted on the internet where you are able to follow the step by step instructions on how to safely and accurately carry out breaded dragons sexing.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Weird and Wonderful Bearded Dragon Behaviors

The social gestures or social behavior exhibited by the dragons include, head bobbing, arm waving and throat puffing. Although such bearded dragon behaviors are more commonly seen or displayed during mating season, they also bob their heads or wave their arms at other times. Males in a conflict vigorously wave their arms, while lizards that are overheating may also wave their arms in an attempt to cool down.

Head bobbing is a territorial behavior and two males who are fighting for domination, will aggressively bob their heads or puff out their throats to show a threatening stance. Females on the other hand are also head bobbers, yet they bob their heads to demonstrate their interest for a particular male, and to indicate that they are ready to mate. The female head bobbing behavior tends to be more relaxed and seductive, while the arm flapping accompanied by the head bobbing is a sure sign that the female is trying to attract a willing and able mate.

Experienced keepers are aware that the behaviors which are displayed by these lizards are not exclusive to either sex. Both male and female bearded dragons will use these weird and wonderful antics for various reasons. The inflated beard is a typical behavior for and this is usually seen during mating season. By inflating their beard the male and females will appear to be more ferocious and larger. Their aim with this particular behavior is to intimidate or scare off their enemies. Another strange behavior is tail curbing and this is a sign that the lizard is in peak condition, good health and is alert.

Dragons are awake and alert during the daylight hours and to this end, pet owners are able to witness the weird and wonderful bearded dragon behaviors. By nature, these lizards are generally social and interactive creatures and will welcome the interaction of their human owners.

Setting up a replicated habitat in a glass enclosure will provide hours of entertainment and owners are able to see the antics of these popular and loved reptile pets - up close and personal. Most dragons tend to be pretty docile, however as with humans, each one is unique and when they are kept in captivity, those who keep these creatures as pets will soon learn the different signs displayed by the lizards. For the most part, these sun-loving reptiles will spend much of their time basking in the sun - and their weird and wonderful antics will be used during mating season or in the event that they feel threatened.

Unlike other types of lizards or reptiles, these endearing creatures enjoy a large level of human contact. Time should be taken to 'tame' the lizards, bearded dragon keepers will soon be able to accurately read the signs exhibited by their pet. With the raised or curb tail being a clear indication that the bearded dragon is in good health and is alert - this behavior will allow owners to gain the assurance that their pet is in tip-top shape and content.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Buying a Bearded Dragon? Do This Quick Health Check First

Pet sellers would usually say only the good things about the animals they are selling. You cannot expect them to totally reveal the health condition of the animal particularly the negative things. It is your responsibility as a pet buyer to check the animal before purchasing it. It is very important to ensure that what you are getting is a healthy pet, totally free of any illnesses or disease.

For bearded dragons, here are several factors to check to guarantee that a bearded dragon is good and healthy:

1. Check if the size of the animal matches its age. A six week baby dragon should at least be 6 inches over. Do not buy baby dragons that are shorter because this could mean that they are not yet ready to transfer to a new environment. It is better to get a juvenile dragon rather than a hatchling.

2. The bearded dragon's eyes must be clear and open. Their eyes should be wide, alert and very attentive to their surroundings. There should be no forms of excretions or dark circles around the dragon's eyes.

3. The mouth, nose, toes and nails are in good condition. There should be no missing body parts. Examine the animal if it walks normally. The mouth and nose should have no sores or any deformities that could mean that a dragon is sick or have a certain disease. At the back of the dragon's head, check for any depressions since this will tell if the dragon is properly nourished or not.

4. The dragon has ample fat stores at the base of its tail. They say it is possible to determine the over-all health by examining the base of the tail for fat stores. A healthy dragon's tail is usually curled up towards the head. Make sure that there are no tail nips or protruding bones along the tail.

5. Check the skin. Try to touch and pull up the dragon's skin, it should go back into place if it's healthy. There should be no sores, burns or cuts. Their skin will look and feel healthy when they are well hydrated. There should be no patches where the scales have been shed.

6. The bearded dragon should be active and relaxed. If the dragon is sluggish and weary, chances are it is sick or unhappy.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Gopher Snake As a Pet - The Pros & Cons

Find Out If a Gopher Snake Will or Won't Make a Good Pet

If you are a beginning pet snake collector or are thinking about getting a snake for a pet you should consider a gopher snake. They are always on the list of best snakes for a beginner. The reasons for this are they are very docile, easy to handle, don't need special housing and are easy feeders. They probably have the best temperament of all the beginner type pet snakes. A hand raised gopher snake will be very tame and are very predictable when outside of their enclosures. They will also appear to enjoy interacting with you. They normally don't have health related problems and they rarely get sick. While you can't teach them tricks or walk them they do make great pets as you can still interact with them by handling them.

You'll find that your pet gopher snake is not dangerous to you or others. Even though there are times when will they get frightened and may strike or bite. This is no big deal as they are not venomous and their teeth are relatively small. They will let you know when they plan to strike so you can quit doing whatever is making them uncomfortable. The fear of getting bit is much worse than the bite. If they think your hand is food they may bite it and not let go. This is easy to handle with some grain (not rubbing) alcohol in their mouth while holding their mouth it downward so the alcohol doesn't get up their nose or flood their mouth.

If you plan to show your pet snake to other people this pet snake is probably best for this as they are very docile. Go slow with introducing it to strangers. It won't take long for it to be accustomed to be handled by others and you can give people their first chance to handle a live snake.

Your pet gopher snake will probably not be a problem feeder as most of them aren't. They will readily eat frozen/thawed mice making the feeding very easy. Another plus is they only need to be fed every 10 days or so. Don't handle the food with your bare hands as the smell might make your pet think your hand is food.

The gopher snakes enclosure doesn't have to be anything special. The main requirement is that it be at least two thirds the snake length long so they can stretch out. Heat one side of the enclosure to 75 to 85 degrees leaving the other side cool. Provide most any material except for cedar shavings for the substrate. Indoor/outdoor carpet works well and is easy to keep clean. You need to have a place for your pet to hide. This can be as simple as box with a hole in it. Make sure the top of the enclosure is well secured so your pet doesn't escape. An escaped snake may be very irritating to some members of the family.

As with most animals there are some disadvantages or cons to having a gopher snake as a pet. They do defecate now and then so you'll need to clean the enclosure which is not that big of a deal. Probably the biggest disadvantage is when they get provoked, frightened, or stressed they often release musk along with their poop that really stinks and the smell is difficult to get rid of. A turn off for some people is that snakes usually eat mice or rats. While some snakes require live ones, your pet gopher snake will be happy with thawed frozen ones.

They may try to strike or bite you if you haven't handled them for a while. This is easy to overcome by handling them frequently. After all isn't this what a pet is for? The more you interact with your pet the more you will enjoy them and it will keep them friendly and even tempered.

As you can see, the pros out weight the cons by a long way in having a gopher snake as a pet. To get the best results with your pet snake you should get one that has been born in captivity. Only try to capture and keep one as a pet if you're an experienced snake collector. Because of their even temperament, lack of feeding problems, needing no special enclosures and ease of handling, the gopher snake will make a great pet for the beginner as well as the experienced collector.

If you are a pet owner or thinking about becoming one you should go to the website at Natural Pets Health to get more information on natural pets health foods, products & cures. You will also find general information such as the pros & cons of owning along with the caring for & feeding of all types of pets from dogs to snakes to fish to exotics.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Don_A_Levy

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

What Types of Snakes Make Good Pets?

Snakes make excellent pets as they are interesting animals and with correct handling can me made quite tame. Choosing the correct snake to have as a pet especially if you are new to reptiles is critical. Here we will look at the best types that make good pets.

When first choosing which snake to get as a pet there are some things that need to be considered first.

They can live for a long time, many can expect to live to over 20 years old so when choosing one as a pet you are committing to a long-term relationship with your new pet.

Large snakes are very attractive and interesting creatures but as a first reptile it is highly recommend staying away from buying a large venomous or constrictor due to the specialist handling and care required for such snakes.

If possible source your snake from a reputable captive breeder, snakes caught from the wild tend to carry diseases, parasites and be generally more stressed than captive bred creatures.

3 good snakes to consider as a pet are:

* Corn Snakes - These snakes do not grow too large, reaching 3-5 feet in length, and are in general a docile snake. They can come in a variety of colors and tend to be easily cared for.

* Ball Pythons - Ball Pythons again will grow to around 3-5 feet in total length and can live for up to 50 years although around 15-20 would be an average lifespan. Ball pythons derive their name from rolling into a tight ball when threatened.

* Milk and King Snakes - These closely related snakes make excellent pets. These can reach slightly longer lengths typically 5-7 feet and live for around 20 years again. A docile snake by nature they are easily handled and looked after.

In general when choosing a snake as a pet take into consideration your experience level, the time you have available to look after your snake and how much it may cost to look after your pet snake.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Overview - Bearded Dragons Species

The eight species of bearded dragons have been named after the areas or regions in Australia in which they are naturally found, with the exception of the Dwarf, Kimberly and Black Soil Bearded Dragon. Common names for these fascinating lizards include the Central or Inland Dragon, the Western, the Eastern, and the Northwest Dragon. The Central type is the most common domesticated lizard.

Most of these reptiles share the same characteristics, and most are semi-arboreal. This means they spend part of their days clambering on tree branches and the other part of their day, on the ground. Most of their time however, is spent on the ground which is why when purchasing or building a cage for your dragon it is best to have more ground space than height. All species are omnivorous and as such their diet includes a mixture of plants and meat. All eight bearded dragon species are sun worshipers and spend much of their day soaking up the sun's warmth.

The central bearded dragon is the most common lizard type that is kept in captivity, though breeders are now offering the other bearded dragon species as pets. The Central lizard's natural habitat is woodlands and rocky desert or semi desert areas, so these reptiles are expert tree climbers and enjoy clambering on rock faces. As a norm, dragons in the wild are not social creatures and are normally seen alone. There are times when gatherings of dragons are spotted especially at well-known feeding places or in basking areas. As a rule, most of the species are loners.

As a whole, all species are docile creatures and because these exotic pets thrive in captivity, the central or inland dragon is being bred for the purposes of pets. By recreating their natural habitat in a vivarium or cage, the dragons live a happy and fulfilling life. Most of the species share common lizard characteristics, and differ only by skin tone or by size. All dragons are generally hardy creatures and because they are relatively easy to care for in captivity, their attractiveness as being family pets is growing fast.

Interestingly, though this specie of bearded dragon can now be found all over the world, in the mid 1960's, Australia passed a law that prevented the trade of any native wildlife, including bearded dragons. Most of the Australian native lizards found outside the country were illegally smuggled and then used to breed. Over the years, breeders have carried out experiments to alter the skin colors or tones and they have successfully managed to breed dragons with unusual colors, such as red and gold hues.

With the inland or central dragon being the most common of the species, much of lizard's common characteristics and features were learnt by studying this particular specie of lizard. Another name that the inland dragon goes by is the Yellow Headed Bearded Dragon.

At maturity, the lizard reaches at least two feet in length, including its tail. To accommodate this and most other species, a vivarium of at least 55 to 60 gallons is required. To replicate the environmental settings of the Australian lizard's natural habitat, the temperature should be set at 88 degrees Fahrenheit, and the basking temperature needs to be between 95 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

For the first time lizard keeper, the bearded dragon species that is highly recommended as a pet is the central or inland dragon. Most breeders only breeding this particular specie and sourcing this breed of lizard should be relatively simple.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Tips for Raising a Baby Iguana

Just like the babies of other pets like puppies, kittens and bunnies, baby iguanas need extra tender loving care to grow strong and healthy. Juvenile and baby iguanas are very fragile at this young age and proper care is needed in order to ensure that they grow into healthy adults.

Like any other baby pet, you'll need to make sure that you meet all the dietary requirements of your pet iguana. It's also important that the juvenile iguana is kept in a habitat that has the necessary requirements for the iguana's health and optimum growth. Without meeting these basic requirements for the iguana's health, it won't grow as well as it should, and could even become sick and die before it reaches adulthood.

Habitat for a Baby Iguana

There are various styles of iguana habitat, from screen to aquariums, and you should pick out which one works best for you. The most important thing will be the accessories you add to the cage.

The most important thing to consider in the cage will be maintaining the temperature. Baby iguanas must stay warm, or they will become sick and possibly die. As reptiles, they're cold blooded creatures and can't maintain their own body temperature. So, it becomes important that you as an owner provide the means for them to stay warm. Use heat lamps to maintain a temperature of 80-85F degrees in the day. You can let the temperature get down to about 70F at night. You'll need to put a thermometer in the cage so that you know the temperature is not too high or too low.

You'll also need to have UV lights on the cage. UVA and UVB rays are of vital importance to a baby iguana's growth. Even better would be allowing your baby iguana to spend some time in the sun - but make sure that the cage doesn't get overheated, and that your little iggy has some shade to move into if he feels too warm.

Other things to consider will be branches or shelves for climbing. Wild iguanas live in the trees, and baby iguanas feel more secure and comfortable when they have plenty of room for climbing. Don't forget to have a place for food, and a shallow dish of water. The water should be big enough that the iguana can get in, but not so deep that it may drown.

Feeding your baby iguana

Iguanas are a vegetarian animal, and as such should never under any circumstances be fed meat or insect products. They need a diet rich in green leafy vegetables to provide the vitamins and calcium they need. They also like grated raw vegetables and little bits of fruit. However, you should be careful with fruit; too much of it and your iguana may develop a sweet tooth and refuse to eat other more healthy foods..

You should find a veterinarian in your area that has experience with reptiles. That will be your best source of information on caring for you iguana. If you provide your baby iguana with the required housing to keep them safe and with a proper diet for growth, you can be assured that your pet will grow into a strong and healthy adult iguana.

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)