Friday, January 21, 2011

3 Ways to Heat a Reptile Vivarium

As reptiles are cold-blooded, they rely on their environment to keep them warm. This means they need an outside heat source to warm themselves, which is why keeping their vivarium heated is vital. The type of heating used will depend largely on the type of reptile as it is important to try and replicate the native environment.

Hot rocks

These rock-shaped heaters are ideal for ground-dwelling lizards in particular, such as bearded dragons, as they allow the reptile to lounge on the rocks and absorb the artificial heat. Just as they would in their natural environment, soaking up the warmth from the sun, heat rocks mimic this to warm the vivarium. To ensure the reptiles don't burn themselves, however, a thermostat should always be used to regulate the temperature of the hot rocks.

Heat mats

Thin mats are a great way of adding extra heat to a reptile vivarium, and should be used on cold winter nights or when additional warmth is needed. The heat mats are placed underneath a section of the vivarium and complement the main source of heat. By placing only in one part of the vivarium, the reptile can move to a cooler area when needed. There are different types of heat mats available, including ones designed to mimic warm sand beds of the desert.

Light bulbs

Lights bulbs come in different shapes and sizes to suit the vivarium and are designed to emit heat but not disturb the reptile's sleeping patterns. Different bulbs are available including blue ones that imitate moonlight and give off just a small amount of heat, and ones designed for desert-dwelling reptiles which have a higher UVB output. Both a thermostat and barrier are needed to keep the heat constant and ensure the reptile can't come into contact with the bulb.

Aquapet supply a full range of glass reptile vivariums with metal mesh removable tops and front sliding glass doors to match all budgets and requirements.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Common Behavior From Bearded Dragons

All reptile lovers and even non reptile lovers are bound to be fascinated by the bearded dragon's behavior. This Australian lizard is awake during the day and this means that owners will be able to spend their waking hours observing their reptile friends. Through observing your pet you will become more familiar with their behavior patterns and their sometimes unusual habits.

Dragons are social creatures and although much of their time is spent basking on hot surfaces, other common characteristics of the desert living lizard include tree climbing, bonding, napping and hunting. By nature the bearded dragon is very docile and although they are active hunters they spend much of their time together and in some cases actually sitting on top of each other. As with most other species, male and female dragons display different behavioral patterns and these differences become very evident during mating season.

With the need to impress and attract female admirers, a dominant lizard will bob their head to indicate their readiness and willingness to mate. In return a lady dragon will be happy to wave her arms and bob her head at the male counterpart. Strangely the arm waving is also a common behavioral pattern of the male species and in fact, this unusual 360 degree arm waving ritual was used to first name these creatures. A bearded dragon was originally referred to as the "Tata Dragon" or the "Goodbye Dragon". The arm waving behavior is not a greeting and although part of the mating process the peculiar wave is performed by the native Australian lizard to lower their body temperatures. Considering these guys live in the scorching hot deserts, one may expect a lot of arm waving when in their natural habitats. Owners have also noticed that the pace of the wave flapping may also be an indication of the mood of the dragon whereby slow waving movements indicates a calm relaxed mood, while rapid arm flapping is a sign of aggression.

Brumation is the term used to describe the bearded dragon's hibernation period and even though they do not sleep as the word hibernation suggests the lizards rather 'shut down' their systems and go into hiding. Hibernation tends to last for around four weeks and while in this state of shut down, dragons consume less and this will result in severe weight loss. Hibernation is a natural phase for dragons in their yet pet owners keeping them in captivity should not encourage this behavior by stimulating the winter period, unless they intend to breed the dragons.

Burrowing and digging are other common behaviors of this fascinating reptile and burrowing can be a sign of various things. A female bearded dragon will dig a burrow when she is ready to deposit her eggs, while both male and females will burrow to take a nap or to turn in for the evening. Those who keep the lizards will also discover that burrowing can also be an indication that their pet is stressed and needs some time out. If burrowing continues for a long period of time, owners should be alerted that their pet is stressed, or may be ill.

Biting is part of the bearded dragon's normal behavior pattern and they will bite for any number of reasons. Mating females often bite their male suitors during energetic mating. Biting will also occur if the lizards are hungry, threatened, taunted or scared. A self-defense behavior pattern or mechanism is to wave their arms furiously, open their mouths while emitting strange hissing type sounds, followed by a fast dashing motion and trying to make their bodies as flat as possible.

In general, bearded dragons are passive and social creatures and if they are cared for well and never taunted, these arm flapping, head bobbing lizards make for extraordinary pets. As opposed to many other ordinary pets, dragons will need to receive continual care and attention and if received in the right dosage, pet owners in turn, will be rewarded with the opportunity to witness the somewhat peculiar, yet enlightening behavior of the bearded dragon.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Treating Your Chameleon for Coccidia

So you have a chameleon and everything is going great. That is until one day you notice that your little friend is not eating as much. There is a chance that he/she has coccidia. So how do you treat for this? There are several steps that should be taken in the treatment of coccidia.

First, you are going to want to take your chameleon to the vet. The more experience your vet has with chameleons the better. Let them take a look at it to confirm that it is coccidia. To do this they will need a fresh fecal sample. Get a plastic bag and a paper towel. Grab the sample with the paper towel and place it in the bag. Get as much air out as possible and place it in the fridge until you are able to go to the vet.

Once they have confirmed that it is coccidia it is time to get the medication for treatment. There are several different medications out there to treat this sickness. However, not every one of these is suitable for a chameleon. Albon, for instance, is used by many to treat coccidia. Although it is popular, it is not the best choice. If you use this you will find that by the second or third day your chameleon is no longer eating at all. Medications, such as albon, can cause more harm than good.

There is a medication out there that is perfect for treating coccidia. It is called ponazuril and is the best at its job. Most of the other medications will only decrease the number of coccidia present, but ponazuril will actually kill them. There are usually no side effects of this drug and it is fairly cheap to purchase. Usually it is used on horses and therefore it can be expensive. Just tell your vet that it must be specially compounded to be able to use for your chameleon. Don't take anything else that is recommended to treat coccidia. You will be able to both take care of the problem as well as shorten time of treatment by using ponazuril.

So now that you have the drug it is time to use it. There are two ways of doing this. The first way is to allow the chameleon to climb onto you. You will take the syringe and measure the directed dose. You must now get the chameleon to open its mouth. This can be tricky at times. You can try squirting it into the mouth when it is eating food or just inject the food itself with the medication. If you choose to inject the food you will need to make sure that the bug itself is large enough. Larger silkworms and larger crickets are great for injecting into. There is actually a third way of getting the chameleon to take the ponazuril. By getting it to hiss and open its mouth the medicine can easily be delivered into the open mouth. However, I would not recommend this technique because of the stress it can cause.

While the chameleon is being treated, it is important to make sure the area in which it is being kept is constantly clean. Any fecal matter that you see needs to immediately be cleaned. Once a week you should empty the entire enclosure and clean everything thoroughly. For this step, you will need to purchase a forty volume clear developer solution. This can be purchased at your local beauty supply shop. Poor into a spray bottle and spray everything down outside with the solution. Let it sit in the sun for ten minutes. After it is done sitting, scrub and rinse. Continue these steps as much as desired...the more the better. It may make the cleaning process easier by having just the basics in the enclosure. Something to climb on and a place to hide as well as a basking spot. By doing this you will decrease the time it takes to clean the enclosure as well as the amount of areas that could possibly house the coccidia.

After about two treatments, take another fecal sample back to the vet to see the progress that has been made. There may need to be continued treatments, but coccidia can usually be taken care of by two good treatments with ponazuril. After the coccidia is gone continue the cleaning steps for another month or so. You will be surprised what these simple steps can do for the health of your chameleon!


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Leopard Gecko Information About Origination, Care, And Morphs

Perhaps the most popular type of gecko in the world, the leopard gecko is known for being very easy to care for. Both beginners and experts have found that handling them and caring for them is more of a joy than a responsibility.

One aspect that makes these creatures so popular is that they come in a variety of vibrant and unique colors. These colors have been changing through the years of breeding.

There are also different morphs that they have, which include carrot-tail, tangerine, tremper albino, Las Vegas (rainwater) albino, bell albino, reverse stripe, stripe, red stripe, giant, jungle, APTOR, RAPTOR, line bred snow, patternless, mack snow, enigma, blizzards, and eclipse. These morphs have been successfully bred together by breeders to create all the different variations. Each one has such a unique look that it is very simple to see why they are so majestic in the world of lizards.

Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India are the regions from which these geckos originated. They can grow up to 12 inches long and weigh over 100 grams when in captivity. The babies are normally about 3 inches long and weigh about 3 grams.

They are terrestrial, which means that they like living in the ground. Leopard geckos are also nocturnal, which means they hunt and are active at night. These animals can live for up to 20 years if they are properly cared for. In order to keep your lizard thriving as it would in the wild, you need to provide some essential things in your lizard's life.

Geckos need a very humid habitat, so that they can shed their skin properly. Also, you may provide your leopard gecko with a shed box. This is a box that has damp sphagnum moss in it. The dampness will help aid the gecko in shedding.

Your leopard gecko also needs to have a nutritious diet. Any extra fat they carry is stored in their tails, because they might need it in case of a shortage on food. Healthy leopard geckos have fat tails.

Another thing that leopard geckos need is light and heat. A temperature gradient is necessary for it to live. This means that part of the cage is warm and part of it is cool so that the lizard can change its body temperature on its own.

Leopard geckos do carry diseases and also salmonella, so you should always keep your hands clean and washed after holding your gecko or touching its environment. Geckos are becoming very popular and are continuing to be one of the most kept reptiles as pets. Breeders are also continuing to breed new and different specimens.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Ball Python Genetics 101 - 2

Advanced Genetic Definitions
Allele - either of the two paired genes which can affect an inheritable trait (one from the father, one from the mother). A wild type allele, together with another wild type alleles, produces a normal individual. A changed, or mutant, allele can block or divert a biochemical pathway to produce a phenotype that is different from the wild type.

Locus - a gene or allele's position on a chromosome (plural: loci) Most mutations appear on separate Locations of the chromosome. Allowing multiple mutant allele to be in place at once. Allowing for Double, Triple and perhaps endless combinations of genetic traits.

Amelanistic - having no melanin. (Albinos)

Axanthic - having no yellow color. (Axanthics)

Hypomelanistic - an animal having less black and/or brown color than a wild-type. (Ghosts)

Leucistic - a pure white animal with dark eyes. (Leucys)

Melanistic - abnormally dark, especially due to an increase of melanin. (Sables)

Xanthic - having more yellow color than wild-type. ("Caramel" Albino)

Super Form- commonly used Ball Python term for the (homozygous) dominant form of a co-dominant mutation. Super Cinnamon, Super Pastel, Super Phantom, Super Enchi Pastel

P generation - two unique animals that begin a breeding program.

F1 generation - first generation offspring of a P generation breeding.

F2 generation - second generation offspring resulting from orginal P generation breeding. The offspring of two F1s.

F3 generation - third generation offspring resulting from orginal P generation breeding. The offspring of two F2s.

So there are the most popular breeds out there right now. These babies come with a high price most of the time as well, so get ready to shell out if you want some.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Leopard Gecko Feed - How to Do It Properly?

Leopard gecko feed is one of the most challenging parts of caring for this exotic pet animal. Geckos are one of the most docile, intriguing, challenging, and pretty colorful reptiles and feeding them properly will definitely impact on their overall health and appearance. Don't get intimidated! Let me show you how.

Feeding them is quite amusing and informative as well, it is not the simple fill-a-bowl type. Although there are numerous nutritional and complete diet commercial pre-packed leopard gecko food in pet stores it is best to provide them with a variety of food. Feeding them is not just to satisfy their hunger but most importantly is to meet their natural instinct to hunt for food or catch prey for food.

So, what are the foods leopard's desires? They love to eat crickets. Purchase the crickets from a pet store and not from the outside garden that you commonly found. Who knows where those crickets have been, they might have gone to yards with fertilizers, weed killers, or even pesticides. If given geckos with this kind of meal, the poisonous chemicals they have consumed may transfer to your pet and may affect their health. The crickets I was referring to are the specially bred ones that are in captivity and are raised solely as reptile food.

When purchasing the cricket in your favorite reptile store, make sure that it is the correct size. How to determine the correct size? Just look at your gecko's head. Leopard gecko feed on crickets that are not wider than half the width of his head. For the young leopard's they prefer the pinhead crickets while the adult gecko can devour the full size adult cricket.

Preparing the feeding time - Do not just feed the crickets yet, there are preparations that needs to be done first. With a plastic bag, place the desired number of crickets for feeding. We will "gut load" the crickets one day before the scheduled feeding. What is gut loading? It is the adding of calcium and other nutrients to your crickets to make them very nutritious to your geckos. How to gut load? Inside the plastic bag, dust the crickets with calcium powder, close the plastic and shake it until the crickets are coated all over. After which these crickets may also be served with grated carrots and water to feed them as well during the 24 hours of gut loading. Calcium powder is an essential element for your pet's bone.

Quantities may vary depending on the age of your pet however, a start of 5-6 crickets per meal is sufficient. If ever geckos cannot finish all just decrease the number next time around. Baby leopards must be fed daily while the adult may be fed once for every two days.

The next day your leopard gecko is ready to feed on the gut loaded crickets. Just place them inside the tank they are not appropriate for bowls since it is in their nature to be jumping around. More so, that is the purpose why crickets are fed to your geckos in order to stimulate their hunting instinct for food. Your gecko will be just happy and satisfied in catching their food.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Real Origin of Bearded Dragons

Bearded dragons make great pets and well cared for, they last for a decade or so. Once you have decided to take a bearded dragon home as a pet, the environment you provide for him needs to closely reflect the habitat he is accustomed to.

Beardies originate and currently live in the deserts and woodland of Central Australia. They spend much of their time in trees and bushes as well as on rocks, basking in the hot sun. When the weather is very hot and reach near 100 degrees Fahrenheit, dragons bury themselves underground to cool down. Being cold blooded, they frequently need to find a balance in temperatures to keep their temperature constant.

The origin of these dragons have exposed them to blinding heat full of UVA and UVB sunlight as well as cooler places to rest such as beneath rocks, under leaves or underground.

For this reason, you need to mimic their natural environment by giving them a source for hot, bright light and cooler sections in their enclosure. Having been accustomed to very little water in the dessert they have originated from, too much water in their enclosure will not be very good for your beardie. Misting or droplets falling form leaves are best for helping your dragon stay hydrated.

These dragons are both omnivores and diurnal. They forage for food like small lizards, insects, mammals, flowers, fruit and other plants in the daytime. Wild beardies are accustomed to catching wild, live insects that have not been exposed to insecticides and small mice themselves.

Nowadays, bearded lizards are bred in captivity worldwide. This is because exporting them from Australia are illegal and for some species, very limited. Bearded pets that are bred in captivity are just as healthy as wild bearded dragons. If you are not a native of Australia, you will be able to find a beardie at your nearest pet shop or online.

Beardies are also called the yellow-headed bearded dragon or he central bearded dragon. Belonging to the genus pogona, this pet is scientifically named the pogona vitticeps or amphibolurus vitticeps.
Physical Characteristics:

Yellow or tan in color, bearded dragons are called "bearded" because they have a "flaring out" ability in their skin throat area when threatened. The word "dragon" comes from the Australian word for "lizard." A flat body, this "beard" becomes quite pronounced when the dragon is feeling alarmed. There are spines on the side of the wedge-shaped head, the side of the body and a tail that is almost as long as its body.

It is not easy to distinguish the females from the males when the beardies are hatchlings. In adults, however, sexual differences are apparent. Males can be distinguished form the females because of their femoral pores, larger heads and darker beards.

A well-cared for bearded dragon in captivity can live about eight to twelve years. There have been reports of "beardies" living up to fifteen years old, however.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

The Step By Step Process For Feeding Leopard Geckos

Feeding your leopard gecko is an important part in taking care of a live animal. These lizards are insectivores, which means they like to eat bugs. A full-grown gecko will need to be fed every other day and a younger gecko will need many meals throughout the day.

There are many bugs and insects that can be fed to these animals. Cockroaches, mealworms, crickets, silkworms, and superworms are most commonly fed to them. A pinkie mouse is a slightly larger treat that you should only give them at certain times. Pinkie mice can become very addicting. Waxworms are also a special treat that should only be given out at rare times. Make sure that when you give your gecko a treat, it is small enough so that the lizard does not choke.

Another important aspect of feeding your leopard gecko is the amount that you should feed them. A larger gecko may be able to eat about 8 crickets, while a small gecko may eat only 4. Leopard geckos should be fed in one sitting.

Unfinished live food should be taken out of the cage, for crickets have been known to gnaw on geckos if left with it too long. This will definitely cause the lizard to become stressed out and possibly sick. If you can put the leftovers in a separate container in the cage, that is okay. Just make sure the other container is covered so the food doesn't find a way out.

Insects that you feed your leopard gecko should be full of nutrition. That is why it is a good idea to gutload the food one day before feeding it to your pet. Gutloading food means you stuff the insect with different foods such as healthy fruits or grains.

You can also put supplements on top of the insects directly before putting them in the cage to be eaten. Make sure you are aware that the food will lose its nutrition if the bugs are left to long without being eaten. Baby geckos that eat supplemented insects may live longer and thrive in the future.

One last thing you should do is make sure the geckos have fresh water at all times in their area. All animals need water and these animals are no exception, so be sure to change their water regularly.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Monday, January 17, 2011

Leopard Tail Gecko As A Creative Way For Kids To Like Carrots

If you've been around the gecko world for a while, or even become familiar with common pet lizards, there's a good chance you've been exposed to the leopard tail gecko. Specifically, the "carrot tail" is one of the most sought after of all varieties, due to its unique coloration and patterns.

As with most any animal, in the habitat where the leopard tail gecko is found in the wild, you can find any number of species and subspecies. Interestingly, however, some thirty years ago, when leopard tail geckos were first brought into the United States, nobody really knew who's who in the zoo. As a result, there was quite a bit of breeding across species. The result was a radically diverse gene pool. With so much variation in available options, there came to be some remarkable and expansive combinations.

Ironically, it was a lot of the different morphs that came to be so desirable. There were remarkable changes in size and color that represented distinctions from what used to be thought of as normal. What was handy was the fact that the cross-breeding resulted in rather constant alterations in the genetics, and the favored traits could then be bred for with some degree of regularity. This is why we have the leopard tail gecko and, specifically, the carrot tail version. Especially children are drawn to the nice colors. Who said kids don't like carrots?

What's so ironic is that genetic mutations are considered liabilities in the wild, as they can be weaknesses that make them more susceptible to predators. For instance, a bright orange tail might not exactly be the best form of camouflage. By contrast, in you home aquarium, these make for some of the most attractive pets. And you find that specimens such as the Murphy Patternless, Enigmas, and Blizzards do exceptionally well. Maybe a "combo morph" R.A.P.T.O.R., co-dominant Giant, complete dominant Macksnow, or poly-genetic S.H.T.C.T. is headed to your home aquarium!

There are a few things you might want to know about the carrot leopard tail gecko. This particular version of leopard tail gecko will have a notable amount of orange pigment in the tail; in fact, it needs a fifteen percent coverage in order to be a true carrot tail. While the color is generally at the base, some of these leopard tail geckos may have the bulk of their tail colored orange.

Here are some other facts that will be helpful to boost your leopard tail gecko knowledge as it pertains to the carrot tail variety. A great example is the Albey's Tangerine strain, as well as the R.A.P.T.O.R.. It's a common occurrence in the Murphy Patternless, as well as the Hypo morphs and the various Tangerines. The three different albino versions feature a carrot tail, so look for it in the Tremper, Rainwater, as well as the Bell. The Blizzards are also known to feature it from time to time.

In the world of the leopard tail gecko, know that the carrot tail is line bred. This means that you will tend to get a carrot tail where two carrot tails are bred. Yet, another way to up the odds of getting the carrot tail is to use leopard tail geckos where they have a larger than usual amount of orange.

Many amateur breeders have begun trying to selectively breed for the carrot tail. If you have leopard tail geckos that a prone to throw the carrot trait, this can be fun to do. But, before you get going and have great success, think about how much room you have to devote to your leopard tail gecko operation. You need to think about the possibility that they may not sell right away, assuming that's what you want to do. So, you could end up will a number of animals to care for until you sell them. It's just important to think about that so you don't view your success as a mixed because you weren't fully prepared.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Different Strains Of The Albino Leopard Gecko

Albino leopard geckos were first bred in 1991. Most of the excitement came from the awesome colors and pattern mutations that could be created.

There are three different strains of these albino geckos, including Bell, Rainwater and Tremper. These traits are all recessive, meaning that breeding two of them together would result in a normal leopard gecko.

Recessive traits are normally discovered randomly by mutating genes that control development of the animal. There is no way to determine the probability of finding some new recessive trait. It is based upon luck.

It is extremely hard to determine the different strains of albino leopard geckos. Sometimes you just have to make a guess as to which gecko you are looking at. Although it is hard to find out which strain is which, the Tremper strain is the most common of the three. The Tremper strain was the first of the three strains to be found, and because of the brownish color that some of these geckos have, they are sometimes called the "Mocha Strain". Usually, however, they are pink or white in color.

The eyes of these geckos can be very unique, having a pink or even dark red coloring. You cannot depend on eye color to tell the difference however, because some of them have completely normal eyes. The different temperatures at which these geckos are incubated at are what determine the color of their skin and eyes. If the temperature of incubation is higher, the gecko will normally turn out darker.

The Rainwater albino is the second in rareness. Many think this gecko has a pinkish color, however this is normally untrue. The Bell strain is the gecko that has the pinkest coloring. It is the rarest of the strains and is normally a lot darker than the two other strains. Knowing this is another factor that helps us determine the difference between the strains.

Not only does the Bell albino normally have the darkest pink coloring, it also has the reddest eyes. This red coloring usually changes in other animals as they become adults, but it does not change for the Bell albino. Its eyes do, however, remain sensitive to light its entire life, so they prefer to eat during the nighttime.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

How to Take Care of a Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pets worldwide, and certainly the most popular reptile, for one reason, and one reason alone. They are incredibly easy to care for, and generally don't struggle with too many health problems. If you want to know how to take care of a leopard gecko, then just read this, and you'll know.

To set up a good home for a "leo", you don't need anything larger than a standard 10-gallon aquarium. Larger is, of course, better, but if you're in a tight space, or you can't afford a larger aquarium, then you're still able to get one of these lizards. As for furnishings, a simple reptile carpet is far better than any loose substrate like sand. On top of that, you'll need at least two different caves or houses for them to hide under, and a water bowl. You might want to get another bowl for mealworms, but that's up to you.

Outside of the aquarium, you'll want to get an undertank heater, which will be the primary source of heat for your creatures. Stick it to one side of the tank so that you can create a hot side and a cool side, so that your leopard gecko can hang out at one side or another depending on whether he or she wants to be hot or cold.

Once you get the tank set up for your gecko, then taking care of a leopard gecko is pretty simple. You'll need to feed them once every second day or so, and fill their water bowl when it runs low, but maintenance is pretty simple. Leopard geckos do not produce liquid waste, and tend to defecate in the same spot all the time, so when you find out where that spot is, all you need to do is put a napkin down in that corner, and remove it when it's dirty.

Your lizard will pretty much take care of themselves after that. They eat crickets and mealworms primarily, so you'll need to visit the pet store from time to time to get more of those items. You can handle them easily once they get used to you poking around in their aquarium and will work out as a wonderful pet for you to raise.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Sunday, January 16, 2011

The New Diablo Blanco Red Leopard Gecko

There is a new breed of leopards known as the Diablo Blanco which is genetically a pattern-less gecko with a complete red-eye. This new red-eye leopard gecko or the Diablo Blanco may or may not be all completely red, some possess only with one or more eyes being 50% of the solid red and the other one acquires the solid red color in both eyes.

Actually this new morph called the Diablo Blanco has three eye variations and only two body variants. As of now there are only two categories of this kind: the Blanco's and the Diablo Blanco.

The Blanco is also a genetically pattern-less gecko, only they have the normal colored eyes of an albino. The head, body, and tail color is white. Although some Blanco's may possess a yellowish color in their body, it may be totally wiped out through selective breeding of the next generation.

The other category is called the Diablo Blanco, this variety possess the complete or partial red-eyed color leopard gecko. Just like the raptor morph, there can also be a snake-eyed Diablo Blanco. That would mean that there could be one or more eyes that will have only half of the solid red color and there could also be a gecko with the two eyes being solid red. The best quality of this morph may possess a complete white skin from head to tail with two vividly solid red eyes.

How did these breed came about?

This is the result of cross breeding of the snowy white Tremper Albino "Blazing Blizzard" females with the best raptor male available as well as breeding those het offspring together. It is definitely not the cross breeding of two Blazing Blizzard's with a pure Blizzard and miraculously came up with a new variety of a red-eye morph. Never yet in the history has that, two Blazing Blizzard geckos produced an all red-eyed leopards.

The Diablo Blanco variety, act as a recessive trait just like the other albino morph. When mixed together, they will produce the same characteristics, traits, and appearance of that of the parents.
The New Diablo Blanco red-eye leopard gecko is a new variety from trial breeding of hobbyist. With patience and painstaking observation of their pets they have finally produced a beautiful flawless white with the possibility of having two solid red eyes lizards. Producing your own new gecko variety greatly depends on your creativity. Study about these reptiles and try to cross-bred it yourself and be able to produce a unique and beautiful variety that can be called your own.

Find out more about this red-eyed leopard geckos; how to care for them and what to feed them. Are they the same with other leopard geckos?


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Top Tips for Your Bearded Dragon Enclosure

By Todd S. Miller Todd S. Miller
Level: Basic PLUS

Todd is a reptile lover of all kinds, he favors Beared Dragons, Geckos, and anoles. He has been studing and raising reptiles since he was ...

There is a lot of advice and information out there today about bearded dragon enclosures and the dos and don'ts of how to set one up.

The enclosure is very important for the healthy and happiness of your beardie, since this is will he/she will be spending a great of their time. So it is important that it be set as close to their natural habitat as possible.

Here are some basic tips you can consider when setting up your bearded dragon enclosure.

You want to use a glass aquarium for best results. Other material such as plastic will decrease the UV rays that they need.You want to have at least 2 thermometers inside the enclosure. These lizards need both a hot side and a cool side so they can regulate their own temperatureThere should be a screen top that slides forward. This is the best way, it makes feeding them and taking them out easier. The screen also helps with regulating the temperature and keeping unwanted pests outFor the flooring area, this is a big issue with owners some say sand, some say newspapers, etc, the best thing for your beardie is to use reptile carpet. Bearded dragons use the tongues to eat, which are sticky, so they will be eating the sand and/or newspapers or whatever you put in there. With carpet they can not digest this so it is best.There should be a water dish at the cool end of the enclosure at all timesYou should provide a branch or something that the beardie can climb on, these guys like to perch, but they are not climbersYou will also need 2 different types of lighting, one that provides proper heating and one that produces the right UV raysThey also need adequate heating, the best way to do this is by using an under the tank heating pad. DO NOT use any type of heating rock or device inside the enclosure. Beardies are not always the smartest and can harm themselves with heating devices.

When it comes to the proper care of your bearded dragon knowing and understanding what they need and their natural habitat is important. Follow the tips above and you will have a healthy and happy beardie for a long time.

This article has been viewed 13 time(s).
Article Submitted On: December 17, 2010

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Discover The Amazing Facts of Bearded Dragons

Reptiles are amazing creatures and are becoming more popular, especially the bearded dragon. Some important yet interesting facts on bearded dragons that most don't even know about.

These reptiles are very docile, meaning that they are calm and easy to handle. They love interacting with their human owners. They originate from Australia's desert area and like the hot and humid environment. Keeping this in mind if you are planning on getting one, they need special heating and lighting to stay healthy. They also do not grow very big, usually around 7 inches to 12 inches which makes them easy to keep even if you live in an apartment.

Many mistakenly think these guys eat only live prey, but that is not true at all. They love vegetables like leafy greens, carrots, and a variety of fruits. They do need some live prey like crickets and meal worms, this has a lot to do with their age and size.

There are a wide variety of bearded dragons one will see in pet shops and at reptile shows, but the most common one you will see is known as the Inland Dragon. Named for their natural habitat in Australia's mainland area.

These lizards should be kept in a glass tank with one side of their tank being the hot side while the other side is the cool side. They regulate their body heat by switching which are of the tank they will be at. It is very important to keep these temperatures at the proper settings.

They also need what is called a hide box, where they can hide when they feel threatened. When feeling threatened they will also puff up their bearded and it will usually turn black, this helps ward off any predators they might attach them. Most mistaken this as aggressive when it is not at all.

Most bearded dragons will never bite their owners or others. They only act this way to protect themselves.

If you plan on acquiring one of these amazing lizards I hope this has enlightened you on some important facts on bearded dragons. They are well worth owning and you will enjoy them for years to come as long as you properly learning about them and care for them.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Ball Python Feeding Tips

Ball pythons make excellent pet snakes in general, but they sometimes get picky when it comes to food. If you have a ball python that's refusing food, or if you're thinking about getting a ball python and wondering if it's hard to feed them, this article is for you.

First of all, you generally want to feed your snake dead mice and/or rats. Live rodents may bite and seriously injure your pet, and if your ball python is used to eating live preys, it will be pretty hard to revert back to dead ones. Also, it's a lot more convenient to thaw a frozen mouse from your freezer than it is to keep a bunch of live ones in a cage and take care of them, or to make a trip to the pet store every week for your snake's lunch.

If you feed your pet dead preys, though, you sometimes have to fool it into thinking that they're alive. Basically, a ball python relies on smell, body heat and movement when deciding if something is a food item or not. To make sure that your snake eats its prey, it's best to unthaw it and then heat it a little by putting it in a plastic bag and then in a bowl of hot water. Make sure that the bag is waterproof before putting it in the water. You want your prey to be slightly hotter than room temperature, or else your snake might not eat it. Use safe tongs to give it to your snake and wiggle it in front of its face a little if it's hesitant to attack the prey.

Whatever type of prey you choose, feed your snake preys that are as wide or a bit larger than the largest part of its body. Young snakes eat about once a week, adults eat once every two weeks. In general, you should move the snake out of its cage into a different enclosure when feeding it as part of the taming process, so that it associates the other box with eating.

The first thing to do if your ball python refuses food is to examine its environment, as stress is usually the main factor. It needs a few places to hide in its terrarium. The more the better; snakes feel a lot safer when they can easily hide. Also, take a look at the ground temperature of the enclosure. It should be around 90 F (32 C) in the hottest area and at least 75 F (24 C) in the coldest spot. A temperature gradient allows your snake to move around and regulate its body temperature to what is the most comfortable. Definitely put at least one hiding spot in the hottest area and one in the colder one.

If you don't think that the environment is the problem, try feeding your snake in the evening or even during the night. Ball pythons are nocturnal, and that's when they normally hunt. You can also try leaving the prey item in its cage for the night and see if it has eaten it by the next morning.

If that fails too, try live preys. Some snakes will just not eat dead animals, period. If your ball python refuses to eat despite all your efforts, feed it a gerbil. Gerbils are the closest to what ball pythons eat in the wild, so they never ever refuse them. The problem, though, is that they get addicted to them, so really use that as a last resort.

Ball pythons can fast for a few months without losing weight, but definitely consult a vet if it refuses to eat for a while and it leads to weight loss.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Friday, January 14, 2011

The Perfect Guide For Taking Care Of Your Carrot Tail Leopard Gecko

In the 1970's, not much was known about these geckos. They were being captured and imported into the United States of America into the pet trade. These geckos are normally grouped into many different kinds of species and subspecies.

The term morph is used to describe different colors, genetics, and/or size in the world of geckos. Traits that are normally passed genetically through future generations are color or pattern. These "morphs" started as a genetic fault and usually made them very different then other geckos. Geckos like these stood out in the wild and were easily found their by different predators.

Today, there are so many leopard gecko morphs that are available. These different morphs include recessive morphs such as Murphy Patternless and Blizzards and dominate morphs such as Enigma. There can also be dominant such as Macksnow, combo such as R.A.P.T.O.R.s, poly genetic such as S.H.T.C.T. and co-dominant morphs like the Giants.

The carrot tail trait is often seen in Albey's Tangerine line and in the R.A.P.T.O.R.s. It has been in many different morphs. This trait is sometimes seen in many other leopard gecko species. These geckos have more of an orange pigment in their tail and it is usually at the base of the tail. However, sometimes the pigment can take over as much as 90 percent of the tail. The tail must be one quarter orange in order for it to be classified as one of the carrot tails.

Sometimes the tail can be completely covered in orange, but this is extremely rare. This trait is line bred. That means that two of these geckos are bred together, and there offspring will normally possess the carrot tail. Orange spots on top of a leopard gecko's head normally characterize the carrot head trait. It is normally exclusive to Tremper Albinos.

You can breed your own leopard geckos, however you should keep in mind the amount of responsibility it is in breeding them. It requires space, time, and resources. Ask yourself what you might do with babies that don't get sold right away and what you will have to do to take care of them.

Carl Kastor is a leopard gecko expert. To view more on how to take care of your carrot tail leopard gecko click here. If you want to learn more about leopard geckos in general and how to take care of them as pets, you can also visit here.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carl_Kastor


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Green Iguana Life Cycle and Characteristics

Green iguanas (Iguana iguana) are a reptile species that is found throughout much of Central and South America and in the Caribbean. This tropical creature does well in hot, humid areas, so it should be no surprise that colonies of iguanas that have descended from escaped pets are actually thriving in parts of Florida, too. The green iguana is one of the most common pet reptiles and also one of the largest reptiles that's commonly kept as a pet.

Appearance of Green Iguanas

The green iguanas are born from eggs, and at the time they hatch they will be about 6-8 inches long. However, within a few years these cute little babies will grow into massive lizards of five to six feet in length. A fully adult iguana weighs an average of fifteen to seventeen pounds.

While juvenile iguanas are typically a bright green color, the name 'green iguana' isn't always an exact fit. They can vary in shade from grayish to emerald green to brown. Their color will depend on their health and mood as well as the temperature and living environment.

You'll notice that adult iguanas have a dewlap, or a flap of skin that hangs down under their chin which is especially noticeable on the males. They have a row of spines running down their neck and back, and also have a third 'eye' known as the parietal eye in the middle of their forehead. The parietal eye is sensitive to light and is associated with the pineal gland. It helps to regulate the iguana's circadian rhythm and also hormone production for thermoregulation. Because of this, it's important that pet iguanas are given periods of light and dark each day, typically 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark.

Green Iguana Habitats

Green iguanas are arboreal lizards, meaning that they prefer to spend their time in the treetops of the jungles where they live. This behavior allows them to bask in the sunshine above the leaves, which is their main method of controlling their body temperature. It also affords them protection from predators, as their body color blends in well with the leaves and shadows. The female iguanas will leave the trees to dig burrows in the ground for laying their eggs. They prefer to live near water and are excellent swimmers. If predators come close, they'll often make a quick escape by diving down into the water and swimming away.

Iguana Development

When iguanas mate, it takes about 65 days until the female is ready to lay her eggs. The number of eggs she'll lay depends on the size of the iguana, but typically there will be from ten to thirty of them. Sometimes, females will share nests, especially in areas where there isn't a lot of space for digging. Females are 'hands-off' mothers, and don't guard their nests, although they will occasionally pop by to visit. The eggs will hatch about 90 days later.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Things To Know About Bullfrogs

By Nail Yener Nail Yener
Level: Basic PLUS

Nail Yener is a part time blogger and web designer who also writes articles on various subjects.

Bullfrogs, Rana catesbeiana, come from the family Ranidae, and live in most parts of North America. They are also called the American Bullfrog. They can be found in medium or large sized ponds, lakes or swamps. During days of rain, bullfrogs, just like other amphibians, go overland and they can be seen in large numbers on the roads of North America.

Bullfrogs have a natural characteristic of living longer in warm weather. Bullfrogs grow up to an average of about 9-15 with their legs adding an additional 17-25 cm. Female bullfrogs have an eardrum the same size as their eyes while males' eardrums are larger relatively. Bullfrogs absorb oxygen and eliminate carbon dioxide through their moist skin, the lining of their mouths and their lungs. When on surface, as opposed to underwater, a bullfrog continuously ventilates itself by continuously elevating and lowering its mouth, also known as the buccal cavity.

Bullfrog eggs hatch in 3-5 days and the time of metamorphosis ranges from a few months to 3 years in northern parts of the continent. Maximum lifespan of bullfrogs is estimated to be around 8-10 years but a captive bullfrog is on record to have lived for a full 16 years.

Research indicates that the Bullfrog feeds on any animal that it can overpower and stuff down its throat, including its own species. Bullfrog stomachs have been found to contain rodents, small turtles, bullfrogs, even bats as well as other invertebrates that are normally the routine food of ranid frogs. These studies conducted on bullfrog dietary trends also reveal that bullfrogs have a unique diet amongst North American Rana to capture and feed on to large and strong aquatic animals. The relative ability of the bullfrog to capture submerged prey versus the green frog, leopard frog and wood frog has been demonstrated in laboratories for understanding purposes.

Human uses of bullfrogs include keeping them as pets. Also, the American bullfrog is used as a specimen for dissection purposes in many medical schools.

Additionally, adult bullfrogs consume insects, annelids, crustaceans et cetera and help in the control of insect pests. Owing to this advantageous ability, bullfrogs have been introduced into many countries of the world, however in South Korea; the American Bullfrog has become a nuisance to the country's ecology because of its appetite!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nail_Yener

Nail Yener - EzineArticles Expert AuthorThis article has been viewed 6 time(s).
Article Submitted On: November 27, 2010

The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

4 Different Types of Reptiles

Reptiles are defined by common characteristics including breathing air, laying eggs and having skins covered in scales. In all, there are over 8,000 species of reptiles, divided into 4 main types: Crocodilia, Sphenodontia, Squamata and Testudines.

Crocodilia

There are currently about 23 species of Crocodilia, a type of reptile that includes crocodiles, gharials, caimans and alligators. These reptiles are mainly found in Australia, North and South America, Africa, and Asia. The specific reptiles in this group include American Alligator, Nile Crocodile, Spectacled Caiman and the Gharial. The smallest Crocodilia is the Cuvier's Dwarf Caiman and the largest is the Saltwater Crocodile. This reptile group has a distinct semi-sprawled walk that allows for land gallops when needed. Alligators and caimans are sometimes confused with crocodiles but have wider, shorter heads and a U-shaped rather than V-shaped snout.

Sphenodontia

The smallest of the types of reptiles, the Sphenodontia used to be known for its diversity of species. Now only the Tuatara remains, a reptile that is related to snakes and lizards, and looks like a type of lizard.

Squamata

With almost 8,000 species belonging to this group, the Squamata are different types of snakes and lizards. For example, there are the chameleons, iguanas and geckoes for the lizards, and cobra, constrictors and pythons for the snakes. This group varies widely in sizes, from 16mm to 8metres, and possess quadrate bones which allow them to open their mouths widely - which is why snakes can consume comparatively large prey.

Testudines

These are turtles and tortoises, and there are around 300 different reptiles in this group. Turtles include Mud, Pond, and Snapping Turtles as well as River Terrapin, and tortoises include Impressed, Leopard and Desert Turtles. This group consists of some of the oldest living reptiles, and only the Tuatara is known to be older.

Aquapet supply a full range of glass reptile vivariums with metal mesh removable tops and front sliding glass doors to match all budgets and requirements.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)

The Step By Step Process For Taking Care Of Your Carrot Tail Leopard Gecko

Since 1970, leopard geckos have been researched a lot by scientists and much more has been found out about them. Back 30 years ago, these creatures were captured and imported into the United States into our pet trade. These lizards are sorted into many different species and subspecies.

Geckos that are morphs are described as different in size, color, or genetics from other leopard geckos. Color and pattern are two different traits that are usually passed from generation to generation. Geckos that are considered morphs ended up being a genetic fault which made them quite diverse. Predators can easily find them because they stick out in the wild like a sore thumb.

The different amount of leopard gecko morphs that you can find today is massive. There are the Murphy Patternless and Blizzard morphs which are recessive, and the dominate morphs like Enigma and Macksnow. One type of combo morph is called R.A.P.T.O.R. Another morph that is poly genetic is called S.H.T.C.T. The final morph, which is co-dominant, is called the Giant morph.

Geckos that have a trait called carrot tail are normally found in Albey's Tangerine line and R.A.P.T.O.R.s. They have been found in several different morphs. Many other leopard gecko species possess this trait. It is called the carrot tail trait because the lizard has more orange pigment in the tail that normal. The coloring usually is at the base of the tail, but it can also take up 90 percent of the coloring in the tail. In order for one of these animals to be classified as being a carrot tail, it must have a tail that is at least 25 percent orange.

In rare cases, this trait can make the tail turn completely orange. This is called a line bred trait, which means that breeding two of these specific geckos together would give the offspring a great chance of possessing the same trait. Sometimes, lizards with this trait will also have orange spots on their head. This usually is only the case with Tremper Albinos.

Breeding your own leopard geckos takes a ton of responsibility, patience, and time. You need to have the right amount of resources and space if you are going to take on this task. Make sure you can be in charge of all these aspects before even considering breeding them.


The Bearded Dragon Manual (Advanced Vivarium Systems)